If a city had feelings, I would almost feel sorry for Chennai. Being the fourth biggest city in India, with at least ten million people, it is constantly asked to stand next to world-renowned and grand cities such as Mumbai and Kolkata. But has anybody even heard of Chennai?
For one thing, it's name was changed from Madras no more than 5 years ago - a crushing blow to a relatively unknown metropolis. How would you feel if your name was suddenly changed after hundreds of years? But that is beside the point, because most people would still be unfamiliar with this sprawling capital of Tamil Nadu (in the SE corner of India). It is the bassist of India's band - it plays a large role in keeping things (especially the economy) moving, but it is rarely recognized and given any credit. Chennai is the Art Garfunkel of India, hiding behind the shadow of more popular sidekicks. It does not have the distinction of being the former capital of the British Empire (as Kolkata was), nor is it the political (New Delhi) or financial powerhouse of India (Mumbai). It is the shy one of the pack, unable to fully assert itself on the world stage, at least yet...
I found Chennai to be neither captivating nor offensive. It was so very hot and humid there that I found myself near delirium at times. The streets are wide and not TOO dirty, but they swing and curve in a very disorienting manner, and it is not easy to navigate the city without the aid of a rickshaw driver. I visited the beach there, but it was extremely dirty and smelled like rotting fish. But it had an interesting old fort left by the British, a good museum, and a Court building and train station with nice architecture and a rich coat of red paint on them. As well, there is a decent public transportation system for those who know their way around the city, and the airport was very nice. And I ate great South Indian food, including fantastic Idlis (rice cakes). The people were friendlier than most Indian city folk that I have run into. They are probably not used to having many visitors, so they were surprised but more than happy to talk with me, or at least flash a smile. This is a major city with plenty of business to take care of, especially in the IT department. Therefore, many people were dressed in nice suits and talking on their mobile phones (after all, India now has a total of about 500 million mobile phone users!). It is a very modern city, despite its lack of obvious draws.
I was most impressed by the police in Chennai. I actually saw police giving out traffic tickets! I know this is something that everybody hates about the police, but if you had seen an entire country's police force sit around and do nothing while people constantly broke the most basic traffic rules right in front of them (like driving on the right side of the road), you would be impressed with this particular police force like I was. In general, India's police are some of the most corrupt people in the country. They are notorious for practically living off of bribes, and they never seem to do anything to serve and protect the Indian people (they prefer to make life harder for people). According to the National Human Rights Commission, 346 Indian people have died in extrajudicial police killings since 2006! Such killings and other abuses of power are usually done for personal gain, such as settling scores between businessmen, crime bosses, and politicians. Imagine your local policeman acting as judge, jury, and executioner...it is not how things should work. The police in Chennai at least seemed to be doing parts of their job properly and in the open, which I was relieved to see.
I was also impressed by how many female police officers I encountered. India is a society dominated by males in almost every aspect. I happened to be reading the local newspaper (The Telegraph) just yesterday here in India, and it showed the newly released World Economic Forum's Gender Gap Index Report of 2009 - it reports that the situation for women in India continues to be among the worst on the planet. Out of 134 countries, its overall ranking was 114! Both the "Health & Survival" ranking as well as the "Sex Ratio" was at 131 (no wonder I seem to see mostly men everywhere I go in this country)! Throughout my time in India, I had not seen a female in a position of power, until I came to Tamil Nadu, and especially Chennai. I saw many female law enforcers in this part of the country, and it was very encouraging. It sets a great example for the rest of the country.
In general, Tamil Nadu (and neighboring Kerala state) are at the forefront of India's development. There is a saying that "the future of India is in the South." In North India, about 70% of public resources are diverted, while in Tamil Nadu, only 30% are diverted. This means that more money is spent on actual projects to improve the lives of people, rather than lining the pockets of politicians and government workers. In Tamil Nadu, there is good, infrastructure, strong private investment and high employment as a result of this. Is it a coincidence that Tamil Nadu is the most urbanized state in India (1/2 of people live in cities), while the state of Bihar is the poorest and least urbanized (10% live in cities)?
The literacy rate is also key to development. No industrial society has a literacy rate under 80% - India has a rate of around 62%. 60% of India's illiterate people are female, which speaks volumes about the disproportionate chances women are given for a proper education in comparison to men. Kerala is by far the richest state in India, and it also has a literacy rate of 100%, due to free and compulsory education. India's illiterate population is hobbling the country, and a majority of these people are women. When this problem is fixed, India will improve economically and socially. It is hard to deny that most children in the world spend a majority of their time with their mother. The smarter the mother is, the smarter the child will likely become. Empowering women is a quick and effective way to improve the situation of the country, and Chennai seems to be at the forefront of this.
In the end, Chennai does not have the historical legacy or attractive appearance that other big cities in India have. But what is important is that it's leading the others in many ways, like in gender equality, the rule of law, and effective infrastructure. For this, Chennai has no need to be shy...
4/08/2010
3/22/2010
Inside Bengaluru
There is a good chance that you have spoken to somebody in Bengaluru (AKA Bangalore)...
Whenever you have a problem with your printer, your computer, or any other piece of technology, you are usually patched over to somebody at a call center who speaks English with an Indian accent. These people are often stationed in Bengaluru, which is India's (and the world's) homebase for call centers, as well as a hub of Information Technology (IT) and software. The city has for years attracted a diverse portion of India's best and brightest. Because of this, Bengaluru has a very youthful, intelligent population, not to mention the fine dining and nightlife that comes along with it.
To the casual visitor, the city does not seem very interesting. To paraphrase my friend and Bengaluru local Amrit Dhir, 'this city is not necessarily great for visiting or sightseeing, but it is possibly the best city in India to live in.' And he is right. There are very few old neighborhoods, or interesting temples and mosques - this is not a camera-friendly place. But if you happen to live here, the standard of living is quite high. Sleek apartments and vast green spaces abound in this city, as do good restaurants and wonderful bars (it is known as the "Pub City" after all). I happened to arrive here in time for a great St. Patrick's Day Pub Crawl, and after not really drinking at all in India, it was a huge change of pace (a hangover ensued to say the least). But if I did not know somebody who lived here, it's safe to say that I would not have appreciated the city nearly as much. A working city it is; a tourist attraction it is not. In many ways Bengaluru is the most uncompromising and straightforward of cities - it does not try to woo and attract tourists. I cannot tell if Bengaluru even WANTS or NEEDS tourists to come. Only those who are meant to be here come and stay. It is stricty enjoyed by insiders. The rest quickly vacate the premises.
For all of the vast potential that I saw in this city, I also saw some of the worst traffic so far in India. In fact, Bengaluru is infamous for its traffic jams. The traffic that I happened to see was mostly the result of a new Metro that is being built. Buses, cars, and motorcycles were constantly being detoured and herded around imposing concrete beams that sprouted out of the ground like fat redwood tree trunks. Traffic refused to move for minutes on end. This construction is a huge nuisance for now, but the up and coming Metro could very well transform the city into a supremely efficient urban center. Sadly, work never seems to progress much. When driving by some men working on one Metro beam, my friend Amrit told me that it was one of the few times in a long while that he had seen any work get done. Things must pick up soon, because bad infrastructure is actually undermining Bengaluru's top standing as an IT center - many investors are relocating to other cities now, such as New Delhi, Chennai, and Chandigarh.
As powerful as India has become due to its booming IT sector, the country would do well to improve its economy in other areas as well. Only about 1-2 million (if that) are employed in the IT sector. Obviously the IT sector will not solve India's problems of providing job security to its people. While those who are employed in this sector are reaping the benefits of a good job, millions of people do not enjoy such stability in their lives. India's population is quite similar to that of China. In 2005, China's formal manufacturing sector employed about 100 million people, while India employed only 7 million people. It is clear that India must improve its manufacturing sector, for that could be a great way to provide jobs to people and stimulate economic growth. Everywhere I travel in India, I see hordes of perfectly fit people just sitting in the street, with nothing to do and little direction in life. They seem dejected, and for good reason. These are the people who can be put to work, and they (and their families) can then enjoy a higher standard of life when they receive a paycheck.
Progress is being made however. I recently read an article by Saritha Rai (The Global Post) about a wonderful project that is occurring in Bengaluru. A company by the name of KK Plastic Waste Management Co. has begun to add shredded plastic waste to road-laying material (asphalt). Such plastic binds the asphalt and reduces the need for constant repair, actually doubling the lifespan of a normal road. Plastic is also water-resistant and thus allows roads to withstand the heavy rains of India. Overall, this material (called "Polymerized Bitumen") can better handle the pressure of constant traffic jams and erosion. More importantly, these "plastic roads" make use of tons of plastic waste. India has always been proud of its ability to recycle cloth, paper, and metal - but plastic has unfortunately been neglected. While many cities have taken the step of banning the use of plastic bags, plastic waste still overflows India's landfills, pollutes its rivers and oceans, and clogs its drainage systems. Bengaluru alone generates about 40 tons of plastic waste each day! The project is off to a great start - so far 800 miles of sturdy city roads have been built, and the city has been rid of 4,000 tons of plastic waste. Fortunately, rag pickers (trash collectors who are some of the poorest people in India) are paid to find plastic trash. In the end, the project has allowed roads to become sturdier, plastic waste to be reduced, and it has proven to be a great way to employ people. As of now, KK CO. is bidding for plastic road-laying projects in New Delhi and Mumbai, and governments in Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and Nigeria are interested in the idea as well.
Bengaluru has always been a city of innovation. It was the first city in India to switch to electric street lights, and now it is the first to change the way it builds its roads. The city's booming IT sector is further proof of the vast potential that exists here. Although there is not much to actually see in Bengaluru, the city provides a high standard of living to its inhabitants, and there is far more happening here than meets the eye...
Whenever you have a problem with your printer, your computer, or any other piece of technology, you are usually patched over to somebody at a call center who speaks English with an Indian accent. These people are often stationed in Bengaluru, which is India's (and the world's) homebase for call centers, as well as a hub of Information Technology (IT) and software. The city has for years attracted a diverse portion of India's best and brightest. Because of this, Bengaluru has a very youthful, intelligent population, not to mention the fine dining and nightlife that comes along with it.
To the casual visitor, the city does not seem very interesting. To paraphrase my friend and Bengaluru local Amrit Dhir, 'this city is not necessarily great for visiting or sightseeing, but it is possibly the best city in India to live in.' And he is right. There are very few old neighborhoods, or interesting temples and mosques - this is not a camera-friendly place. But if you happen to live here, the standard of living is quite high. Sleek apartments and vast green spaces abound in this city, as do good restaurants and wonderful bars (it is known as the "Pub City" after all). I happened to arrive here in time for a great St. Patrick's Day Pub Crawl, and after not really drinking at all in India, it was a huge change of pace (a hangover ensued to say the least). But if I did not know somebody who lived here, it's safe to say that I would not have appreciated the city nearly as much. A working city it is; a tourist attraction it is not. In many ways Bengaluru is the most uncompromising and straightforward of cities - it does not try to woo and attract tourists. I cannot tell if Bengaluru even WANTS or NEEDS tourists to come. Only those who are meant to be here come and stay. It is stricty enjoyed by insiders. The rest quickly vacate the premises.
For all of the vast potential that I saw in this city, I also saw some of the worst traffic so far in India. In fact, Bengaluru is infamous for its traffic jams. The traffic that I happened to see was mostly the result of a new Metro that is being built. Buses, cars, and motorcycles were constantly being detoured and herded around imposing concrete beams that sprouted out of the ground like fat redwood tree trunks. Traffic refused to move for minutes on end. This construction is a huge nuisance for now, but the up and coming Metro could very well transform the city into a supremely efficient urban center. Sadly, work never seems to progress much. When driving by some men working on one Metro beam, my friend Amrit told me that it was one of the few times in a long while that he had seen any work get done. Things must pick up soon, because bad infrastructure is actually undermining Bengaluru's top standing as an IT center - many investors are relocating to other cities now, such as New Delhi, Chennai, and Chandigarh.
As powerful as India has become due to its booming IT sector, the country would do well to improve its economy in other areas as well. Only about 1-2 million (if that) are employed in the IT sector. Obviously the IT sector will not solve India's problems of providing job security to its people. While those who are employed in this sector are reaping the benefits of a good job, millions of people do not enjoy such stability in their lives. India's population is quite similar to that of China. In 2005, China's formal manufacturing sector employed about 100 million people, while India employed only 7 million people. It is clear that India must improve its manufacturing sector, for that could be a great way to provide jobs to people and stimulate economic growth. Everywhere I travel in India, I see hordes of perfectly fit people just sitting in the street, with nothing to do and little direction in life. They seem dejected, and for good reason. These are the people who can be put to work, and they (and their families) can then enjoy a higher standard of life when they receive a paycheck.
Progress is being made however. I recently read an article by Saritha Rai (The Global Post) about a wonderful project that is occurring in Bengaluru. A company by the name of KK Plastic Waste Management Co. has begun to add shredded plastic waste to road-laying material (asphalt). Such plastic binds the asphalt and reduces the need for constant repair, actually doubling the lifespan of a normal road. Plastic is also water-resistant and thus allows roads to withstand the heavy rains of India. Overall, this material (called "Polymerized Bitumen") can better handle the pressure of constant traffic jams and erosion. More importantly, these "plastic roads" make use of tons of plastic waste. India has always been proud of its ability to recycle cloth, paper, and metal - but plastic has unfortunately been neglected. While many cities have taken the step of banning the use of plastic bags, plastic waste still overflows India's landfills, pollutes its rivers and oceans, and clogs its drainage systems. Bengaluru alone generates about 40 tons of plastic waste each day! The project is off to a great start - so far 800 miles of sturdy city roads have been built, and the city has been rid of 4,000 tons of plastic waste. Fortunately, rag pickers (trash collectors who are some of the poorest people in India) are paid to find plastic trash. In the end, the project has allowed roads to become sturdier, plastic waste to be reduced, and it has proven to be a great way to employ people. As of now, KK CO. is bidding for plastic road-laying projects in New Delhi and Mumbai, and governments in Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and Nigeria are interested in the idea as well.
Bengaluru has always been a city of innovation. It was the first city in India to switch to electric street lights, and now it is the first to change the way it builds its roads. The city's booming IT sector is further proof of the vast potential that exists here. Although there is not much to actually see in Bengaluru, the city provides a high standard of living to its inhabitants, and there is far more happening here than meets the eye...
3/13/2010
Mumbai: Back To The World
I have come to notice how uncompromisingly Indian things are in this country: Indian music, Indian TV, Indian films, Indian food, Indian fashion, and Indian mannerisms are omnipresent. I have barely heard any Western music, rarely seen any TV shows that I'm familiar with, and I have only eaten Western food in tourist areas. I've only seen about 5 McDonald's in the past two months, and they are only in the bigger cities. This country is obsessed with itself, which I find very impressive! At times I think that it doesn't need the rest of the world (except for the economy). Even when Indians emulate the Western world, they do it with a thoroughly Indian twist. So having been in this country for well over a month, I was beginning to get pulled into the whirlpool- India was beginning to overpower my awareness of the outside world. Just when I had nearly forgotten about this world, I arrived in Mumbai...
The mere mention of Mumbai (or Bombay) has always been extremely intimidating to me, invoking images of a dark, dirty, putrid tangle of buildings and streets full of mean faces and aggression. New Delhi was the only other mega-city that I had been to at this point, and I was not impressed by its harsh intensity. So it was only natural for me to expect Mumbai to be much the same, if not bigger and meaner. After all, it does have an official population of 19-20 million people (though I believe it is much higher in reality) and it is easily one of the biggest cities in the world. In fact, more people live in Mumbai than Norway, Denmark, and Finland combined! It is the home of India's stock exchange and the legendary Bollywood film industry. About 38% of India's taxes are generated in this city alone. It is a powerhouse, to say the least. Therefore, I was officially a bundle of nerves as I rode into town. I had no clue what to expect...
Wow! I cannot believe how welcoming Mumbai actually is!
Old colonial and Victorian buildings are everywhere, showcasing the city's long history, while along the beach there are Art Deco apartments to lend a more funky vibe. Victoria Terminus is the busiest train station in Asia, and it is easily the most beautiful train station I have ever seen. Same with the Central Post Office, which is housed in a grand Victorian building. The University of Mumbai is breathtaking, and the Taj Mahal Palace is among the most stunning and luxurious hotels that I have had the pleasure to enter. The gate of India is also a very memorable monument, straddling the ocean that laps only feet away. The streets themselves, full of charming black and yellow Fiat cabs, are lined with various trees like Banyans and Palms, providing pedestrians with shade and aesthetic, natural beauty. The Oval Maiden (thank the Brits for that name) is an open green field surrounded by palm trees where boys play cricket and people relax during the middle of the day. An ocean breeze occasionally flows through town, rustling the palm fronds, and briefly chilling the hot, humid air.
After staying in so many ugly cities in India, I was now very confused, especially since this was the city I expected be the ugliest! But the overall city plan is very logical, developed, and mature- it is clear that Mumbai has had time to get things right and work out the kinks. I got a very warm, easy-going feeling while walking through town. The traffic doesn't even seem to rage at the typical Indian pace. Picture the grandiosity of a New York or London, combined with a seafront and a semi-tropical atmosphere reminiscent of Miami.
What I find most interesting about the city is how international and cosmopolitan it is. For the first time in India, I could hear a familiar song, or eat familiar food. For the first time I could see stores like Nike, Adidas, Bulgari, Dolce & Gabbana, etc. And the restaurants, bars, and lounges here are top notch. I was very shocked by how the women act here. They seem like a different species altogether from the typical Indian women I have encountered. Instead of every female dressing in traditional Indian clothing, many are dressed in very fashionable clothes - they have no problem looking good and showing off their bodies. Rather than a slow, rigid way of moving, they walk with confidence. Instead of soft voices, guarded eyes and plain expressions, they are quicker to smile or look somebody in the eye, and they talk in a louder, more casual voice than the typical Indian woman. They seem much more liberated from tradition, which can be good or bad depending on how one looks at it. Many men are smartly dressed in nice suits, and walk with purpose and swagger. Everybody seems to be on a cell phone, and half the people are even talking in English. People do not stop to talk to me every second here, and frankly they don't seem to even notice me much of the time - foreigners are not a strange sight to the locals here, who seem to have things to do and therefore can't be bothered. This is a far cry from the parochial atmosphere of most places I have visited in India, where people just stare at me or approach me all day. My time here quickly reminded me that I was on planet Earth again, rather than just planet India.
I did notice a darker side to the city however. South Mumbai (including the Fort and Colaba areas) is the nicer part of town, and that's where I mainly stayed. But I did take a trip to North Mumbai, particularly the Dharavi slum (the biggest slum in Asia). Sadly, over half of the population in this city lives in either slums or shantytowns. It was too dangerous for me to really penetrate (people were warning me not to go inside), but I walked around the edge and peeked in. While some of the richest people in the world live in this city, millions of the poorest also call Bombay home, and they do not lead nice lives. In these parts of town beggars abound, often holding a child as a prop for sympathy points. I could see many dirty, barefooted children walking around, collecting money under the instruction of their parents or the local mafia boss - kids grow up very fast here, and there is no time or money for a true childhood. I also ran into lots of guys trying to sell me drugs and trying to talk to me through a cocaine haze, their eyes bloodshot and their jaws working overtime. They were not pleasant people, and I certainly did not want to make them angry. I got the feeling that many horrible things happen in this city, but in places hidden from the public, where nobody can see them. But perhaps this is true in every major city- one can never truly know...
Mumbai provided me with one of the greatest surprises of my life. Contrary to my expectations, it ranks among the most memorable and eye-opening cities I have visited. The absolute poorest people live near some of the richest people in the world. Some of the nicest hotels in the world are miles away from the biggest and dirtiest slums in the world. You will hear each of India's 23 languages spoken here, and you will see people of every ethnicity in the world wearing every type of clothing, and eating every kind of food. I admit that New Delhi initially soured me on big Indian cities, but Mumbai ended that - comparing Delhi to Mumbai is like comparing fish oil to honey. Bombay is like a rich curry, with many different ingredients that combine to make a wonderful flavor, greater than the sum of its parts. It combines physical beauty with cultural integrity. As far as mega-cities go, Mumbai is difficult to beat in terms of ambiance, sophistication, complexity, and historical legacy. It is truly one of the most unforgettable cities in the world...
The mere mention of Mumbai (or Bombay) has always been extremely intimidating to me, invoking images of a dark, dirty, putrid tangle of buildings and streets full of mean faces and aggression. New Delhi was the only other mega-city that I had been to at this point, and I was not impressed by its harsh intensity. So it was only natural for me to expect Mumbai to be much the same, if not bigger and meaner. After all, it does have an official population of 19-20 million people (though I believe it is much higher in reality) and it is easily one of the biggest cities in the world. In fact, more people live in Mumbai than Norway, Denmark, and Finland combined! It is the home of India's stock exchange and the legendary Bollywood film industry. About 38% of India's taxes are generated in this city alone. It is a powerhouse, to say the least. Therefore, I was officially a bundle of nerves as I rode into town. I had no clue what to expect...
Wow! I cannot believe how welcoming Mumbai actually is!
Old colonial and Victorian buildings are everywhere, showcasing the city's long history, while along the beach there are Art Deco apartments to lend a more funky vibe. Victoria Terminus is the busiest train station in Asia, and it is easily the most beautiful train station I have ever seen. Same with the Central Post Office, which is housed in a grand Victorian building. The University of Mumbai is breathtaking, and the Taj Mahal Palace is among the most stunning and luxurious hotels that I have had the pleasure to enter. The gate of India is also a very memorable monument, straddling the ocean that laps only feet away. The streets themselves, full of charming black and yellow Fiat cabs, are lined with various trees like Banyans and Palms, providing pedestrians with shade and aesthetic, natural beauty. The Oval Maiden (thank the Brits for that name) is an open green field surrounded by palm trees where boys play cricket and people relax during the middle of the day. An ocean breeze occasionally flows through town, rustling the palm fronds, and briefly chilling the hot, humid air.
After staying in so many ugly cities in India, I was now very confused, especially since this was the city I expected be the ugliest! But the overall city plan is very logical, developed, and mature- it is clear that Mumbai has had time to get things right and work out the kinks. I got a very warm, easy-going feeling while walking through town. The traffic doesn't even seem to rage at the typical Indian pace. Picture the grandiosity of a New York or London, combined with a seafront and a semi-tropical atmosphere reminiscent of Miami.
What I find most interesting about the city is how international and cosmopolitan it is. For the first time in India, I could hear a familiar song, or eat familiar food. For the first time I could see stores like Nike, Adidas, Bulgari, Dolce & Gabbana, etc. And the restaurants, bars, and lounges here are top notch. I was very shocked by how the women act here. They seem like a different species altogether from the typical Indian women I have encountered. Instead of every female dressing in traditional Indian clothing, many are dressed in very fashionable clothes - they have no problem looking good and showing off their bodies. Rather than a slow, rigid way of moving, they walk with confidence. Instead of soft voices, guarded eyes and plain expressions, they are quicker to smile or look somebody in the eye, and they talk in a louder, more casual voice than the typical Indian woman. They seem much more liberated from tradition, which can be good or bad depending on how one looks at it. Many men are smartly dressed in nice suits, and walk with purpose and swagger. Everybody seems to be on a cell phone, and half the people are even talking in English. People do not stop to talk to me every second here, and frankly they don't seem to even notice me much of the time - foreigners are not a strange sight to the locals here, who seem to have things to do and therefore can't be bothered. This is a far cry from the parochial atmosphere of most places I have visited in India, where people just stare at me or approach me all day. My time here quickly reminded me that I was on planet Earth again, rather than just planet India.
I did notice a darker side to the city however. South Mumbai (including the Fort and Colaba areas) is the nicer part of town, and that's where I mainly stayed. But I did take a trip to North Mumbai, particularly the Dharavi slum (the biggest slum in Asia). Sadly, over half of the population in this city lives in either slums or shantytowns. It was too dangerous for me to really penetrate (people were warning me not to go inside), but I walked around the edge and peeked in. While some of the richest people in the world live in this city, millions of the poorest also call Bombay home, and they do not lead nice lives. In these parts of town beggars abound, often holding a child as a prop for sympathy points. I could see many dirty, barefooted children walking around, collecting money under the instruction of their parents or the local mafia boss - kids grow up very fast here, and there is no time or money for a true childhood. I also ran into lots of guys trying to sell me drugs and trying to talk to me through a cocaine haze, their eyes bloodshot and their jaws working overtime. They were not pleasant people, and I certainly did not want to make them angry. I got the feeling that many horrible things happen in this city, but in places hidden from the public, where nobody can see them. But perhaps this is true in every major city- one can never truly know...
Mumbai provided me with one of the greatest surprises of my life. Contrary to my expectations, it ranks among the most memorable and eye-opening cities I have visited. The absolute poorest people live near some of the richest people in the world. Some of the nicest hotels in the world are miles away from the biggest and dirtiest slums in the world. You will hear each of India's 23 languages spoken here, and you will see people of every ethnicity in the world wearing every type of clothing, and eating every kind of food. I admit that New Delhi initially soured me on big Indian cities, but Mumbai ended that - comparing Delhi to Mumbai is like comparing fish oil to honey. Bombay is like a rich curry, with many different ingredients that combine to make a wonderful flavor, greater than the sum of its parts. It combines physical beauty with cultural integrity. As far as mega-cities go, Mumbai is difficult to beat in terms of ambiance, sophistication, complexity, and historical legacy. It is truly one of the most unforgettable cities in the world...
2/28/2010
Ahmedabad: What Would Gandhi Think?
Ahmedabad is the capital city of Gujarat state (in West India), and with a population of around 5 million people, it is no slouch as far as metros go. The traffic to get into town was dense and sluggish - as usual it was an uncomfortable arrival. Drivers in India care not for the comfort of their passengers and thus I usually find my whole body being thrown about like a ragdoll: the brakes, the gas pedal, and the steering wheel are used liberally in the fight for every bit of lane-less road.
The city itself is very old and has a high concentration of Muslims - I visited the beautiful Grand Mosque that was built in the early 15th century! Markets line the streets in the old town, with people selling socks, toys, and everything under the sun. It seemed that few foreigners came through here, for I didn't see a single other "white person", and just about every set of eyes was upon me all the time, everywhere I went. Fortunately, they were curious eyes, not xenophobic, hostile eyes. Other than some relics from the past (a few mosques, remnants of a fort, and an old gate into town), the town seemed plain, almost dreary - the buildings were not old enough to be interesting, but not modern enough to please the eye.
Ahmedabad is really known as Gandhi's headquarters during the middle part of his life, where he developed his theories and techniques for non-violent protest - it was on the outskirts of this town where he founded an ashram on the banks of the local river. It was a huge pleasure to visit the place - it was a peaceful haven from the heavy atmosphere of the city. To see the simple (almost empty) room where he lived, was quite moving. It was even more amazing to think that this man accomplished the same thing as the United States Army (ousting the British Empire), but without even fighting! A strong mind needs no fist apparently. To walk where Gandhi walked and to sit where Gandhi sat really inspired me. It gave me hope...
Later that night I was walking down a busy street, facing blinding headlights and deafening horns. Without warning, I stumbled upon the saddest sight I had ever seen. It was an old lady, no younger than 70 or 80- frail, wrinkled, nearly comatose - lying on the side of the road. Her feet were nearly sticking out onto the road, almost about to get run over. She was alone, sleeping on hard dirt, just staring into space. Her eyes would not blink. Other than small tears, her eyes looked empty. She seemed too lonely to care anymore, as if she were in shock. She was a shell of a person. After so many years on this planet, this is what her life had come to? Nobody was around to care for her or even comfort her as she faced death, old age and discomfort. People just drove by without even a glance. This woman was in deep trouble and help was not on the way: she was past the point of hope. At least the beggar children that I've encountered on the streets have a glimmer of hope, and a future (though a grim one). Most importantly, they have each other. But this woman had nobody, and not a trace hope...
It was too much for me to bear. I stopped, and for a few minutes I just sat with her and tried to soothe her. It was the least that I could do. She never looked my way or even moved, but I could see more tears in those empty eyes. She knew I was there, but I will never know if I helped - I hope she knows that at least someone cares. I eventually walked away, but I couldn't stop thinking about her. I replaced her image with that of my own grandmother, and couldn't help but shudder. Would you simply walk by an old lady lying in the dirt, dying of loneliness? Can you imagine your own grandmother in that position? What a way to end a life!
This single image can help explain many instances of overpopulation on this planet (especially in developing countries). Some people have lots of children because they do not want to turn out like this lady - lonely and dying, with nobody to care for them. They consider it an investment for their future - a free servant. All one needs to confirm this is to look at the thousands of children who are purposely mangled just to help earn pity money from people passing by. A couple of days ago, I saw a little girl less than a year old (practically a baby), without one of her legs - slinking along the ground, almost like an earthworm. I doubt she was born without a second leg.
So after such an inspiring day, I had seen the most wretched soul on earth: a soul that had given up, too sad to fight back. Is this what Gandhi wanted when he fought for a free and independent India? What would he do if he saw this lady? What would he think? The situation before me cannot possibly be the one that Gandhi had in mind...
The city itself is very old and has a high concentration of Muslims - I visited the beautiful Grand Mosque that was built in the early 15th century! Markets line the streets in the old town, with people selling socks, toys, and everything under the sun. It seemed that few foreigners came through here, for I didn't see a single other "white person", and just about every set of eyes was upon me all the time, everywhere I went. Fortunately, they were curious eyes, not xenophobic, hostile eyes. Other than some relics from the past (a few mosques, remnants of a fort, and an old gate into town), the town seemed plain, almost dreary - the buildings were not old enough to be interesting, but not modern enough to please the eye.
Ahmedabad is really known as Gandhi's headquarters during the middle part of his life, where he developed his theories and techniques for non-violent protest - it was on the outskirts of this town where he founded an ashram on the banks of the local river. It was a huge pleasure to visit the place - it was a peaceful haven from the heavy atmosphere of the city. To see the simple (almost empty) room where he lived, was quite moving. It was even more amazing to think that this man accomplished the same thing as the United States Army (ousting the British Empire), but without even fighting! A strong mind needs no fist apparently. To walk where Gandhi walked and to sit where Gandhi sat really inspired me. It gave me hope...
Later that night I was walking down a busy street, facing blinding headlights and deafening horns. Without warning, I stumbled upon the saddest sight I had ever seen. It was an old lady, no younger than 70 or 80- frail, wrinkled, nearly comatose - lying on the side of the road. Her feet were nearly sticking out onto the road, almost about to get run over. She was alone, sleeping on hard dirt, just staring into space. Her eyes would not blink. Other than small tears, her eyes looked empty. She seemed too lonely to care anymore, as if she were in shock. She was a shell of a person. After so many years on this planet, this is what her life had come to? Nobody was around to care for her or even comfort her as she faced death, old age and discomfort. People just drove by without even a glance. This woman was in deep trouble and help was not on the way: she was past the point of hope. At least the beggar children that I've encountered on the streets have a glimmer of hope, and a future (though a grim one). Most importantly, they have each other. But this woman had nobody, and not a trace hope...
It was too much for me to bear. I stopped, and for a few minutes I just sat with her and tried to soothe her. It was the least that I could do. She never looked my way or even moved, but I could see more tears in those empty eyes. She knew I was there, but I will never know if I helped - I hope she knows that at least someone cares. I eventually walked away, but I couldn't stop thinking about her. I replaced her image with that of my own grandmother, and couldn't help but shudder. Would you simply walk by an old lady lying in the dirt, dying of loneliness? Can you imagine your own grandmother in that position? What a way to end a life!
This single image can help explain many instances of overpopulation on this planet (especially in developing countries). Some people have lots of children because they do not want to turn out like this lady - lonely and dying, with nobody to care for them. They consider it an investment for their future - a free servant. All one needs to confirm this is to look at the thousands of children who are purposely mangled just to help earn pity money from people passing by. A couple of days ago, I saw a little girl less than a year old (practically a baby), without one of her legs - slinking along the ground, almost like an earthworm. I doubt she was born without a second leg.
So after such an inspiring day, I had seen the most wretched soul on earth: a soul that had given up, too sad to fight back. Is this what Gandhi wanted when he fought for a free and independent India? What would he do if he saw this lady? What would he think? The situation before me cannot possibly be the one that Gandhi had in mind...
2/19/2010
Rajasthan is the largest of India's 29 states, though it has only slightly more than 50 million people living here - it is a land of sparse population, though the colors and rich culture more than make up for the harsh desert landscape...
Rajasthan has always been a proud, and fiercely independent region of the world. Some of the warrior tribes here successfully fought off both the Mughal and British Empires, and were never fully subjugated by either (a feat unmatched by the rest of India). When faced with certain defeat in battle, the brave Rajput warriors would commit mass suicide rather than live under captors.
Today, one still gets the feeling that this part of India cherishes its unique culture and independence. The food is simple but very delicious. The music is rich and complex (often tied to dances), and many of the instruments used are not played anywhere else in the world. At night, exotic desert music floats through the air, evoking a distant past. Even the curved mustaches on the men seem to be found only here. But what really sticks out to the most casual visitor, are the colors. The women's clothing here nearly radiates color due to the strength of the dyes used. The men's turbans likewise seem to use every color in the spectrum (different colors signify a certain status in society). Eyes strain to keep up with the multitude of colors that people flash on the streets. But these wonderful colors aren't just found on the people.
Oddly enough, the cities here seem to be color-coded, like patches of colorful desert flowers. I visited Jaipur, the capitol of Rajasthan, and could see why it was called the "Pink City." The markets and buildings of the Old Town are all painted a pink hue, almost a salmon color. I then visited Jodhpur, and the buildings of its Old Town, settled at the base of a magnificent fort, are painted a rich blue, to symbolize the Brahmin caste that used to exclusively live here. Further west, almost on the border of Pakistan, I came to Jaisalmer, with another indomitable fort - this fort (and the rest of this small, ancient caravan city) has a golden, honey colored hue that comes from the local sandstone. Furthermore, Pushkar (the city with the holy lake where Ghandi's ashes were spread) is almost completely adorned with white buildings. The different colors of these cities seem to evoke a uniqueness, or a way to separate one from the next- a very independent spirit to match the independence of its people. Such a dense arrangement of colorful cities is hard to match anywhere else in the world...
For all the color and culture that I found in Rajasthan, I could not help but notice a huge problem that is only getting worse...Water scarcity. The lake of Pushkar(or the lack thereof) is a perfect example the water problem here. Only a few years ago, this lake was nearly full, supplying holy water to the thousands of pilgrims who visited it. Today, the lake is completetly gone - an invisible holy lake. In Udaipur, where I am currently staying, the lake is still here, but it is very low, and slowly shrinking. Such recent problems are unprecedented here.
Rajasthan is a desert, and much of it is dry and poorly irrigated - its people heavily rely on the unpredictable monsoon to grow crops. Almost 70% of Indians still depend on farm incomes, and 60% of India's farms depend on these monsoon rains, according to the BBC. Sadly, 2009 was the weakest monsoon season in 40 years, and India (especially Rajasthan) is currently facing a sever water shortage. Not only is there not enough water for personal use, but crops are not getting the water they need, and food is becoming scarcer. Such scarcity is a driving factor in the relocation of people from rural to urban areas. One only needs to look in the news today to notice that Indian prices for such staples as potatoes, pulses, wheat, and rice have sharply risen in the last year. Overall food inflation in India is currently at about 18%, the highest it has been in nearly a decade - this is a clear sign of water and thus food scarcity. For a population that is only growing (India's population is set to double by 2050), this is an ominous sign. Soaring food prices in 2007-8 caused riots all over the world. Water wars have already been fought in Sudan and Somalia with brutal ferocity, and future water wars will be no less violent. It doesn't help that more than 70% of India's precipitation runs off into the sea! It is obvious that India does not have an effective water management strategy, and it better get one soon!
For all of the problems with water shortages in the world, including Australia and the American SW and SE, you would think that people would start to take this matter seriously. Local reservoirs, rivers, lakes and dams are blatantly short on water, and the fact that 2007 and 2008 were in the top ten hottest years on record should further highlight this problem. Yet in October 2009, only 35% of Americans believed that climate change is a very serious problem, down from 44% in April 2008 (Pew Research Center)!! Of course the economy can be blamed for turning people's attention away from the more long-term problems of the environment, but can we not think about more than one thing at once?
This is not just India's problem, but that of the entire planet. By 2050, the world population will be at around 9 Billion people, and in order to feed that many people, global output of food will have to increase about 70% (AP). Is this even possible, with more and more land being overused or developed each year? Time will tell. Nevertheless, these problems are very urgent and very serious - not even the most colorful cities or pashmina scarves of Rajasthan can cover them up...
Rajasthan has always been a proud, and fiercely independent region of the world. Some of the warrior tribes here successfully fought off both the Mughal and British Empires, and were never fully subjugated by either (a feat unmatched by the rest of India). When faced with certain defeat in battle, the brave Rajput warriors would commit mass suicide rather than live under captors.
Today, one still gets the feeling that this part of India cherishes its unique culture and independence. The food is simple but very delicious. The music is rich and complex (often tied to dances), and many of the instruments used are not played anywhere else in the world. At night, exotic desert music floats through the air, evoking a distant past. Even the curved mustaches on the men seem to be found only here. But what really sticks out to the most casual visitor, are the colors. The women's clothing here nearly radiates color due to the strength of the dyes used. The men's turbans likewise seem to use every color in the spectrum (different colors signify a certain status in society). Eyes strain to keep up with the multitude of colors that people flash on the streets. But these wonderful colors aren't just found on the people.
Oddly enough, the cities here seem to be color-coded, like patches of colorful desert flowers. I visited Jaipur, the capitol of Rajasthan, and could see why it was called the "Pink City." The markets and buildings of the Old Town are all painted a pink hue, almost a salmon color. I then visited Jodhpur, and the buildings of its Old Town, settled at the base of a magnificent fort, are painted a rich blue, to symbolize the Brahmin caste that used to exclusively live here. Further west, almost on the border of Pakistan, I came to Jaisalmer, with another indomitable fort - this fort (and the rest of this small, ancient caravan city) has a golden, honey colored hue that comes from the local sandstone. Furthermore, Pushkar (the city with the holy lake where Ghandi's ashes were spread) is almost completely adorned with white buildings. The different colors of these cities seem to evoke a uniqueness, or a way to separate one from the next- a very independent spirit to match the independence of its people. Such a dense arrangement of colorful cities is hard to match anywhere else in the world...
For all the color and culture that I found in Rajasthan, I could not help but notice a huge problem that is only getting worse...Water scarcity. The lake of Pushkar(or the lack thereof) is a perfect example the water problem here. Only a few years ago, this lake was nearly full, supplying holy water to the thousands of pilgrims who visited it. Today, the lake is completetly gone - an invisible holy lake. In Udaipur, where I am currently staying, the lake is still here, but it is very low, and slowly shrinking. Such recent problems are unprecedented here.
Rajasthan is a desert, and much of it is dry and poorly irrigated - its people heavily rely on the unpredictable monsoon to grow crops. Almost 70% of Indians still depend on farm incomes, and 60% of India's farms depend on these monsoon rains, according to the BBC. Sadly, 2009 was the weakest monsoon season in 40 years, and India (especially Rajasthan) is currently facing a sever water shortage. Not only is there not enough water for personal use, but crops are not getting the water they need, and food is becoming scarcer. Such scarcity is a driving factor in the relocation of people from rural to urban areas. One only needs to look in the news today to notice that Indian prices for such staples as potatoes, pulses, wheat, and rice have sharply risen in the last year. Overall food inflation in India is currently at about 18%, the highest it has been in nearly a decade - this is a clear sign of water and thus food scarcity. For a population that is only growing (India's population is set to double by 2050), this is an ominous sign. Soaring food prices in 2007-8 caused riots all over the world. Water wars have already been fought in Sudan and Somalia with brutal ferocity, and future water wars will be no less violent. It doesn't help that more than 70% of India's precipitation runs off into the sea! It is obvious that India does not have an effective water management strategy, and it better get one soon!
For all of the problems with water shortages in the world, including Australia and the American SW and SE, you would think that people would start to take this matter seriously. Local reservoirs, rivers, lakes and dams are blatantly short on water, and the fact that 2007 and 2008 were in the top ten hottest years on record should further highlight this problem. Yet in October 2009, only 35% of Americans believed that climate change is a very serious problem, down from 44% in April 2008 (Pew Research Center)!! Of course the economy can be blamed for turning people's attention away from the more long-term problems of the environment, but can we not think about more than one thing at once?
This is not just India's problem, but that of the entire planet. By 2050, the world population will be at around 9 Billion people, and in order to feed that many people, global output of food will have to increase about 70% (AP). Is this even possible, with more and more land being overused or developed each year? Time will tell. Nevertheless, these problems are very urgent and very serious - not even the most colorful cities or pashmina scarves of Rajasthan can cover them up...
2/12/2010
Varanasi: City of Life and Death
Wherever you go in the world, you can witness life, you can experience life, and you can ponder life...
But Varanasi is the only place in the world where you are guaranteed to confront both life and death. It is a city where the full cycle of life is embraced on a daily basis. Death is literally floating in the air! Whether it is the flicker of a funeral pyre or the smell of a burning body, one is constantly reminded of mortality while walking along the ghats (steps) of the Ganges River. Spirituality seeps from this city. It is saturated in history and enlightenment...
It is at first very shocking to see dead bodies engulfed in flames. After about 3 hours of burning, they are completely reduced to ash and smoke, only to be carried away by the wind and water. But quickly the experience becomes rather calming and relaxing. The power and significance of this event is too great to feel sad or uncomfortable for too long. It opens your mind to say the least, especially if you are used to a normal funeral at the cemetary...
There are two main "burning ghats" where people take their deceased loved ones. But first there is a procession through the streets of the old town, where the body (wrapped in cloth ranging from a simple red to lavish golden and orange, depending on gender and caste) is carried on what looks like a bamboo stretcher. The body is eventually taken down steps to the Ganga (as they call it), where it is given a final bath, and then placed on the destined pile of logs. Different wood can be chosen, and each type has a different price (sandalwood powder is the most expensive). There are specific men who weigh out the wood with scales - it is said that weighing just the right amount of wood for each different body is considered an art. Indian men are the only ones who watch the burning, as women have been known to become so upset at the sight that they throw themselves on the fire! As one guy told me, only "strong men" are allowed to watch. The bodies of the lower castes are positioned closer to the river, while the higher castes burn higher up the slope and farther from the river. Cows sit and occasionally gaze over, completely indifferent to everything. People just stare quietly, deep in contemplation, as smoke fills the air. Temples long ago stained black from the smoke provide the backdrop of this dramatic sight. Boys from the lowest castes eventually scoop up the ashes with a shovel, which are then given to the Ganges River...
The first time I experienced the ghats of Varanasi was in a rickety little boat rowed by an old, bearded man. The colorful ghats that lead down to the river from the narrow alleyways of the old city all seemed to have unique atmospheres. Some were crowded, and some were desolate. Temples, shrines, and palaces loomed over the water like a canyon of history. The current was peaceful and slow, almost nonexistent as it carried the ashes of the deceased into the oceans of the world. For all that my eyes were seeing,all I could really hear were children laughing, bells and cymbals occasionally being struck, gulls squawking, and the sound of the river lapping against the boat and paddles. The discrepancy between my vision and hearing was something to marvel at. It was the ultimate boat ride.
The newer parts of town have a peaceful chaos about it that I grew to like. Sure, there is dirt and garbage (also tons of cow dung everywhere, watch your step!). The traffic is dense mostly with honking motorbikes and rickshaws, as speakers emit exotic Indian street music from a secret location above the roads. Flea-ridden dogs and holy cows roam the streets. Young children caked in dirt beg for money while people try to sell you drugs and peddle boat rides. Sadly, the Ganges is literally septic, with dozens of sewers constantly spilling into it. But in the end, these are mere sidenotes to the entire experience that occurs along the river (the beating heart of Varanasi). While death is something that most people are afraid to think about, we all know it will eventually come. In the end we hide from it and push it under the rug, only to briefly think about it occasionally. For people who inhabit or visit Varanasi, the imminence of death remains in your thoughts at all times. Time does not seem to exist here sometimes. Powerful stuff...
It is not just death that is here - it is also the full range of life. Here people pray, bathe and do their laundry in a river that they believe enhances both their life and afterlife. People connect with their gods and the spirits of their family members and friends who are no longer here, while young married couples sit by the water, connecting in only a way they will truly know. Kids laugh and play cricket along the banks of the river, yet at the same time beggars and street people hold dearly onto life. Such life experiences are walking distance from burning ghats, where day and night bodies are lit on fire and disappear, only to become a memory. Life and death really do coexist on a permanent basis here, and in plain view.
Varanasi (or Kasi as they used to call it) most represents India to me - like India, Varanasi inspires every single human emotion. The great and the horrible will surround you at the same time, and never seem to leave. If there is a sight, smell, sound or feeling that isn't in India, it doesn't exist. Varanasi is a microcosm of India, which in itself is the world in concentrate. Nothing is watered down or covered up here. Take it or leave it.
When compared to every other city I have seen, Varanasi is like a wise, old guru who knows everything about life and is willing to share its secrets with whomever seeks them. The maturity of this city is impossible to surpass, and a visit here is more than highly recommended. It is one of the most surreal and amazing places on Earth...
But Varanasi is the only place in the world where you are guaranteed to confront both life and death. It is a city where the full cycle of life is embraced on a daily basis. Death is literally floating in the air! Whether it is the flicker of a funeral pyre or the smell of a burning body, one is constantly reminded of mortality while walking along the ghats (steps) of the Ganges River. Spirituality seeps from this city. It is saturated in history and enlightenment...
It is at first very shocking to see dead bodies engulfed in flames. After about 3 hours of burning, they are completely reduced to ash and smoke, only to be carried away by the wind and water. But quickly the experience becomes rather calming and relaxing. The power and significance of this event is too great to feel sad or uncomfortable for too long. It opens your mind to say the least, especially if you are used to a normal funeral at the cemetary...
There are two main "burning ghats" where people take their deceased loved ones. But first there is a procession through the streets of the old town, where the body (wrapped in cloth ranging from a simple red to lavish golden and orange, depending on gender and caste) is carried on what looks like a bamboo stretcher. The body is eventually taken down steps to the Ganga (as they call it), where it is given a final bath, and then placed on the destined pile of logs. Different wood can be chosen, and each type has a different price (sandalwood powder is the most expensive). There are specific men who weigh out the wood with scales - it is said that weighing just the right amount of wood for each different body is considered an art. Indian men are the only ones who watch the burning, as women have been known to become so upset at the sight that they throw themselves on the fire! As one guy told me, only "strong men" are allowed to watch. The bodies of the lower castes are positioned closer to the river, while the higher castes burn higher up the slope and farther from the river. Cows sit and occasionally gaze over, completely indifferent to everything. People just stare quietly, deep in contemplation, as smoke fills the air. Temples long ago stained black from the smoke provide the backdrop of this dramatic sight. Boys from the lowest castes eventually scoop up the ashes with a shovel, which are then given to the Ganges River...
The first time I experienced the ghats of Varanasi was in a rickety little boat rowed by an old, bearded man. The colorful ghats that lead down to the river from the narrow alleyways of the old city all seemed to have unique atmospheres. Some were crowded, and some were desolate. Temples, shrines, and palaces loomed over the water like a canyon of history. The current was peaceful and slow, almost nonexistent as it carried the ashes of the deceased into the oceans of the world. For all that my eyes were seeing,all I could really hear were children laughing, bells and cymbals occasionally being struck, gulls squawking, and the sound of the river lapping against the boat and paddles. The discrepancy between my vision and hearing was something to marvel at. It was the ultimate boat ride.
The newer parts of town have a peaceful chaos about it that I grew to like. Sure, there is dirt and garbage (also tons of cow dung everywhere, watch your step!). The traffic is dense mostly with honking motorbikes and rickshaws, as speakers emit exotic Indian street music from a secret location above the roads. Flea-ridden dogs and holy cows roam the streets. Young children caked in dirt beg for money while people try to sell you drugs and peddle boat rides. Sadly, the Ganges is literally septic, with dozens of sewers constantly spilling into it. But in the end, these are mere sidenotes to the entire experience that occurs along the river (the beating heart of Varanasi). While death is something that most people are afraid to think about, we all know it will eventually come. In the end we hide from it and push it under the rug, only to briefly think about it occasionally. For people who inhabit or visit Varanasi, the imminence of death remains in your thoughts at all times. Time does not seem to exist here sometimes. Powerful stuff...
It is not just death that is here - it is also the full range of life. Here people pray, bathe and do their laundry in a river that they believe enhances both their life and afterlife. People connect with their gods and the spirits of their family members and friends who are no longer here, while young married couples sit by the water, connecting in only a way they will truly know. Kids laugh and play cricket along the banks of the river, yet at the same time beggars and street people hold dearly onto life. Such life experiences are walking distance from burning ghats, where day and night bodies are lit on fire and disappear, only to become a memory. Life and death really do coexist on a permanent basis here, and in plain view.
Varanasi (or Kasi as they used to call it) most represents India to me - like India, Varanasi inspires every single human emotion. The great and the horrible will surround you at the same time, and never seem to leave. If there is a sight, smell, sound or feeling that isn't in India, it doesn't exist. Varanasi is a microcosm of India, which in itself is the world in concentrate. Nothing is watered down or covered up here. Take it or leave it.
When compared to every other city I have seen, Varanasi is like a wise, old guru who knows everything about life and is willing to share its secrets with whomever seeks them. The maturity of this city is impossible to surpass, and a visit here is more than highly recommended. It is one of the most surreal and amazing places on Earth...
2/05/2010
The Taj & The Train
My time in Uttar Pradesh has allowed me to see the best and the worst of India. UP as they call it here, is the most populous state in India, with 170 million people crowding the Northern strip of plains along the Ganges, the holiest river in Hinduism. It is a very rural area, and quite poor as well. Thousands of villages hug this precious source of life.
In the midst of this all is Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. I can't say much about the town - it is a very boring (but bustling) tourist town that is mostly a sidenote to the Taj. But the Taj itself is a different story. We have all seen images of this masterpiece of design, but it is only until one visits the place that true appreciation can begin...From afar, one will never notice the intricate marble inlay designs that covers this memorial, nor can one see the design of the entire space. The Taj is set in a large, beautiful courtyard, true to its Mughal (Muslim) design, and it is flanked by other gorgeous buildings that are sadly never noticed. And the beautiful Yamuna River (Hinduism's 2nd holiest river) that flows behind the Taj creates a whole new atmosphere of natural serenity that pictures will never capture. Both the intimate details and grand design can only be seen in person, and I will not try to describe the indescribable to you any longer. It is a futile effort. But the Taj Mahal is truly something to behold, and it is possibly India's greatest gift to the world...
But it was after my visit to this wonder of the world that I got to see a different part of India - the trains. India's railway system is the 2nd most extensive in the world, covering just over 39,000 miles (one of the few positive legacies left behind by the British). But the train situation in India is currently stagnant at best.
Let's start with a typical Indian train station - extremely crowded with people sleeping, practically camping out. To grab a plot of floorspace that is not covered with dead cockroaches, betel nut juice spit, or general garbage and filth, is a miracle. The stations almost feel like refugee camps, or sess pools. People jump down onto the tracks and urinate in front of everybody. Since many of these people do not live in areas inhabited by tourists, this is their one chance to inhabit the same space. I had numerous people just come up to me, and stand there - staring. Awkward to say the least...And it doesn't help at all that trains in India are ALWAYS late. I have taken two trains so far, and one was 5 hours late, while the other was a measly 3 hours late. One guy told me about his train being 12 hours late!! At that point I say cancel the thing...
So once I got on the train, I found my sleeper compartment. A slab of hard leather, which I have no problem with. But this slab of leather got really cold at night, especially when half of the windows in the car were missing! I was near hypothermia by the time the sun came up the next day. I saw a mouse scurrying around the car, as well as cockroaches. Not a pretty sight. The smell of human waste emanates from the bathrooms (in which the toilets merely open onto the train track below, a convenient but unfortunate short-term solution to the problem of waste disposal on the trains). These things I (and probably you too) take for granted in the USA and the West. I will, after this, discontinue any negative remarks towards the US train system...
It really makes me wonder about the state of Indian infrastructure if something as basic and simple as the windows of a train are missing...can the government not even try to keep people from freezing? Do politicians here even care? The roads of India are not any better...The harsh Indian sun and weight of millions of automobiles is constantly thrashing the roads and highways here, making road work an endless project. India has the highest ration of workers to miles of road in the world (one for every 1.25 miles of road), yet this still is not enough to prevent potholes that can sometimes be the size of a bathtub! Unfortunately, anybody employed by the Indian government can NEVER be fired under a certain article of the Indian constitution, so these workers never show up for work, since they will get paid either way. This also explains many problems in the country - rewarding people for not working may prove to be disastrous for this country. This all sounds trivial, until it is understood that up to 1/3 of all vegetables grown in India rot before they reach their destination, due to slow travel caused by poor road conditions. Similarly, up to 1/3 of teachers miss school each day here because they cannot reach their school on time, also due to poor roads.
The bad state of Indian infrastructure will only hurt India as a society and an economy, and it will make life difficult not just for a visitor like me, but for the rest of the country (that's 1.3 billion people and counting by the way). Fortunately, a massive highway project called the Golden Quadrilateral Highway is nearly finished, after it was begun in 1998. This highway connects all four of India's big cities (Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, and Kolkata), basically forming a loop around the edges of the country. Another highway is in the works to bisect India down the middle from the North to the very South. These projects should help things immensely in the long run. But the train system must be developed further and made more efficient, since trains are less energy-intensive than automobiles. Let's hope things start to seriously pick up, or else the added weight of more people with more cars will only drag this country down to the pace of a snail...
In the midst of this all is Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. I can't say much about the town - it is a very boring (but bustling) tourist town that is mostly a sidenote to the Taj. But the Taj itself is a different story. We have all seen images of this masterpiece of design, but it is only until one visits the place that true appreciation can begin...From afar, one will never notice the intricate marble inlay designs that covers this memorial, nor can one see the design of the entire space. The Taj is set in a large, beautiful courtyard, true to its Mughal (Muslim) design, and it is flanked by other gorgeous buildings that are sadly never noticed. And the beautiful Yamuna River (Hinduism's 2nd holiest river) that flows behind the Taj creates a whole new atmosphere of natural serenity that pictures will never capture. Both the intimate details and grand design can only be seen in person, and I will not try to describe the indescribable to you any longer. It is a futile effort. But the Taj Mahal is truly something to behold, and it is possibly India's greatest gift to the world...
But it was after my visit to this wonder of the world that I got to see a different part of India - the trains. India's railway system is the 2nd most extensive in the world, covering just over 39,000 miles (one of the few positive legacies left behind by the British). But the train situation in India is currently stagnant at best.
Let's start with a typical Indian train station - extremely crowded with people sleeping, practically camping out. To grab a plot of floorspace that is not covered with dead cockroaches, betel nut juice spit, or general garbage and filth, is a miracle. The stations almost feel like refugee camps, or sess pools. People jump down onto the tracks and urinate in front of everybody. Since many of these people do not live in areas inhabited by tourists, this is their one chance to inhabit the same space. I had numerous people just come up to me, and stand there - staring. Awkward to say the least...And it doesn't help at all that trains in India are ALWAYS late. I have taken two trains so far, and one was 5 hours late, while the other was a measly 3 hours late. One guy told me about his train being 12 hours late!! At that point I say cancel the thing...
So once I got on the train, I found my sleeper compartment. A slab of hard leather, which I have no problem with. But this slab of leather got really cold at night, especially when half of the windows in the car were missing! I was near hypothermia by the time the sun came up the next day. I saw a mouse scurrying around the car, as well as cockroaches. Not a pretty sight. The smell of human waste emanates from the bathrooms (in which the toilets merely open onto the train track below, a convenient but unfortunate short-term solution to the problem of waste disposal on the trains). These things I (and probably you too) take for granted in the USA and the West. I will, after this, discontinue any negative remarks towards the US train system...
It really makes me wonder about the state of Indian infrastructure if something as basic and simple as the windows of a train are missing...can the government not even try to keep people from freezing? Do politicians here even care? The roads of India are not any better...The harsh Indian sun and weight of millions of automobiles is constantly thrashing the roads and highways here, making road work an endless project. India has the highest ration of workers to miles of road in the world (one for every 1.25 miles of road), yet this still is not enough to prevent potholes that can sometimes be the size of a bathtub! Unfortunately, anybody employed by the Indian government can NEVER be fired under a certain article of the Indian constitution, so these workers never show up for work, since they will get paid either way. This also explains many problems in the country - rewarding people for not working may prove to be disastrous for this country. This all sounds trivial, until it is understood that up to 1/3 of all vegetables grown in India rot before they reach their destination, due to slow travel caused by poor road conditions. Similarly, up to 1/3 of teachers miss school each day here because they cannot reach their school on time, also due to poor roads.
The bad state of Indian infrastructure will only hurt India as a society and an economy, and it will make life difficult not just for a visitor like me, but for the rest of the country (that's 1.3 billion people and counting by the way). Fortunately, a massive highway project called the Golden Quadrilateral Highway is nearly finished, after it was begun in 1998. This highway connects all four of India's big cities (Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, and Kolkata), basically forming a loop around the edges of the country. Another highway is in the works to bisect India down the middle from the North to the very South. These projects should help things immensely in the long run. But the train system must be developed further and made more efficient, since trains are less energy-intensive than automobiles. Let's hope things start to seriously pick up, or else the added weight of more people with more cars will only drag this country down to the pace of a snail...
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