2/28/2010

Ahmedabad: What Would Gandhi Think?

Ahmedabad is the capital city of Gujarat state (in West India), and with a population of around 5 million people, it is no slouch as far as metros go. The traffic to get into town was dense and sluggish - as usual it was an uncomfortable arrival. Drivers in India care not for the comfort of their passengers and thus I usually find my whole body being thrown about like a ragdoll: the brakes, the gas pedal, and the steering wheel are used liberally in the fight for every bit of lane-less road.

The city itself is very old and has a high concentration of Muslims - I visited the beautiful Grand Mosque that was built in the early 15th century! Markets line the streets in the old town, with people selling socks, toys, and everything under the sun. It seemed that few foreigners came through here, for I didn't see a single other "white person", and just about every set of eyes was upon me all the time, everywhere I went. Fortunately, they were curious eyes, not xenophobic, hostile eyes. Other than some relics from the past (a few mosques, remnants of a fort, and an old gate into town), the town seemed plain, almost dreary - the buildings were not old enough to be interesting, but not modern enough to please the eye.

Ahmedabad is really known as Gandhi's headquarters during the middle part of his life, where he developed his theories and techniques for non-violent protest - it was on the outskirts of this town where he founded an ashram on the banks of the local river. It was a huge pleasure to visit the place - it was a peaceful haven from the heavy atmosphere of the city. To see the simple (almost empty) room where he lived, was quite moving. It was even more amazing to think that this man accomplished the same thing as the United States Army (ousting the British Empire), but without even fighting! A strong mind needs no fist apparently. To walk where Gandhi walked and to sit where Gandhi sat really inspired me. It gave me hope...

Later that night I was walking down a busy street, facing blinding headlights and deafening horns. Without warning, I stumbled upon the saddest sight I had ever seen. It was an old lady, no younger than 70 or 80- frail, wrinkled, nearly comatose - lying on the side of the road. Her feet were nearly sticking out onto the road, almost about to get run over. She was alone, sleeping on hard dirt, just staring into space. Her eyes would not blink. Other than small tears, her eyes looked empty. She seemed too lonely to care anymore, as if she were in shock. She was a shell of a person. After so many years on this planet, this is what her life had come to? Nobody was around to care for her or even comfort her as she faced death, old age and discomfort. People just drove by without even a glance. This woman was in deep trouble and help was not on the way: she was past the point of hope. At least the beggar children that I've encountered on the streets have a glimmer of hope, and a future (though a grim one). Most importantly, they have each other. But this woman had nobody, and not a trace hope...

It was too much for me to bear. I stopped, and for a few minutes I just sat with her and tried to soothe her. It was the least that I could do. She never looked my way or even moved, but I could see more tears in those empty eyes. She knew I was there, but I will never know if I helped - I hope she knows that at least someone cares. I eventually walked away, but I couldn't stop thinking about her. I replaced her image with that of my own grandmother, and couldn't help but shudder. Would you simply walk by an old lady lying in the dirt, dying of loneliness? Can you imagine your own grandmother in that position? What a way to end a life!

This single image can help explain many instances of overpopulation on this planet (especially in developing countries). Some people have lots of children because they do not want to turn out like this lady - lonely and dying, with nobody to care for them. They consider it an investment for their future - a free servant. All one needs to confirm this is to look at the thousands of children who are purposely mangled just to help earn pity money from people passing by. A couple of days ago, I saw a little girl less than a year old (practically a baby), without one of her legs - slinking along the ground, almost like an earthworm. I doubt she was born without a second leg.

So after such an inspiring day, I had seen the most wretched soul on earth: a soul that had given up, too sad to fight back. Is this what Gandhi wanted when he fought for a free and independent India? What would he do if he saw this lady? What would he think? The situation before me cannot possibly be the one that Gandhi had in mind...

1 comment:

  1. Nick - The pathetic old woman you refer to was likely an Untouchable, part of the rigid caste system of India. I am interested to read about a young American's first-hand views on such an existence in this day and age especially from the political and ethical - even moral - point of view of a nation where more millionaires in $ value are springing up faster than anywhere else of Earth. How will it effect India in the long-term?

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