5/15/2010
Blog Break
I will not attempt to post any new blogs in the near future due to the possibility of Chinese censorship. Please check back in about 1 month. Thank you for your understanding...NICK
Nepali Growing Pains
The sight of the greatest collision in Earth's history - a land that suddenly rises from flat plains to the highest mountains in the world. A nation wedged between India and China, the two most populous countries in the world. A city shrouded in exoticism and mystery, welcoming hordes of traders as they travel the important trade route between Tibet and India. A Shangri-La of Himalayan proportions...
Nepal has always been painted as a mystical land that is out of reach and isolated from the world. However, in reality it is located in the middle of a very important region of the world, and events that occur here undoubtedly have implications for other countries. The towering Himalayas and the flat plains of the subcontinent meet here. Glaciers that are found in Nepal and Tibet number in the hundreds, and supply water to most of South Asia's and China's major rivers - any changes in these glaciers will affect up to a quarter of the world's population. As well, the political struggles that are currently being played out in Nepal illustrate the competitive nature that exists between vastly different political ideologies - the uncompromising Communism also found in China to the north and the Democratic elements of Nepal that are found in India to the south. This struggle proves that methods of governing people are still being experimented with in many parts of the world. Nepal is a land that ultimately represents transition, whether it is from mountain to plain, or Communism to Capitalism. The Himalayas remind one of a great natural upheaval in the past, but the upheaval continues today in the form of Nepalese politics and the generally poor quality of life there...
Nepal reminds me of a teenager that has been blessed with incredibly good looks, but who is emotionally confused and dysfunctional. The mountains found within Nepal's borders are unequalled as far as sheer height and chiseled shape. The rivers send milky-blue glacier water through steep valleys full of lush forests and peaceful villages. There is even amazing jungle scenery to be found in the south. It is difficult to find a country with more breathtaking natural scenery, especially in such a concentrated area. Paradoxically, Nepal is one of the world's poorest countries, and it shows...
I thought that India had a poor infrastructure, but the roads found in Nepal pale in comparison. Driving down any of Nepal's roads or main highway in a bus is akin to riding in a covered wagon - vicious jolting is constant since potholes cover the roads. You almost have to check if your brain is securely inside your head after each ride is over. Much of the country is nearly inaccessible due to lack of roads, and tourists are pretty much limited to the middle part of the country. Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, is located in a valley ringed by high mountains, and so anyone that enters the city (from any direction) must first pass through these intimidating obstacles. The roads that lead into this most exotic and renowned of cities are all narrow, two lane mountain switchback roads that at times are made of bare dirt! Automobiles seem to barely move as they enter the city, and the cloud of dust and car exhaust that engulfs everything is a most unfitting welcome for such a highly regarded city in the world's history. The main arteries of the city are unbelievably clogged, and it is a supreme test of patience for one to successfully enter or exit Kathmandu at any time. If roads are a sign of a city's health, then Kathmandu is officially sclerotic.
Now the clogged roads are a problem, but it is a problem that is easily taken for granted. After two weeks in Nepal, I realized that it was a treat to even be allowed to USE the roads. In the middle of my stay here, there was a general strike called by the Maoist party of Nepal (the country's burgeoning Communist party). Before 2006, there was still a Monarch in charge of Nepal, as had been the case for over 200 years. Strikes like this rarely happened under the monarchy. After April of 2006, the king was reduced to a figurehead, and Nepal suddenly became a Democracy in the blink of a historical eye. Since then, political parties have been constantly jostling for power. While political fighting would never bring a country like the US to a standstill, it has proven to be a cruel form of punishment for the Nepalese people. The Maoist party in particular has resorted quite often to strikes as a form of blackmail when they feel they should be given more power. These are not little strikes where certain workers are not allowed to show up to work - these are thorough and uncompromising strikes. All schools, offices, factories, and shops are closed down in the entire country. Plus, no cars, motorcycles, taxis, or buses are allowed to operate on ANY street. The country becomes essentially non-functional, and this happened for 6 days while I was staying in Nepal (fortunately, I was on a trek in the mountains for a week and thus I was 100% unaffected by this strike!). When a country is literally not functional during my stay there, I can only assume that there are some very serious kinks that must be worked out. Communist ideology is clashing in a very aggressive way with the more democratic elements of Nepal. It is a country in the midst of a very transitional and immature phase of its political history...
The poverty and pollution that smothers Kathmandu is much greater than I ever expected. The first thing to note is that Nepal is not very populated- its official population is currently around 30 million people (just a little more than the whole city of Mumbai in India). I did not find Kathmandu to be as loud and intense as any of the large Indian cities, and there is not as much litter and filth on the streets (due to a smaller amount of people to drop the litter), but let's not subject Nepal to too many comparisons with India. Kathmandu is in a valley, which means that it cannot sprawl endlessly - there is a limit to the boundaries of the city. This means that there is a high density of people living in this city, even if there are only between 1 and 2 million people - these people still live in close quarters with each and there is a high degree of pollution. The rivers in Kathmandu, though holy to the Hindus, are of a rich black sludge that wreaks of sewage. While the rich live in comfortable homes, the poor Kathmandu residents live in tents and shanties along these putrid rivers - they have no jobs, so they beg and scrounge for food during the day. Car exhaust and other forms of pollution hover above the valley, trapped by the surrounding mountains, almost like a brown mist. Signs of overpopulation and urban stress are very easy to find in what was once a successful city-state in a tranquil valley.
For me the saddest part of Kathmandu was seeing the "glue boys," as I've taken to calling them. They are boys without a home, or parents, or even shoes. They walk the streets alone or in groups, and for recreation they huff toxic glue out of plastic and paper bags. From afar it seems as though they are blowing up a balloon, but the game they are playing is a far cry from the childlike innocence represented by balloons. They spend most of their day chasing a dangerous high, in a bleak daze. Everybody just walks right by them, even if the boys are getting high or passed out on the sidewalk in broad daylight. Nobody seems to care, or to want to help these young boys. It is a fitting example of the plight of many youth in the world. It is said that up to 150 million children are engaged in child labor in the world, while over 50 million do not have registered births. According to the UN, 4 million babies die each year before they are 1 month old (Nepal has the third highest infant mortality rate in the world). When it comes to the youngest people (and the future) of society, there is a huge lack of empathy and attention given to them by governments and ordinary citizens of the world. The UN Convention on the Rights of the Child was adopted in 1989, and it calls on all nations to protect children from sexual exploitation and abuse, to reduce child mortality and to give children access to free health care and education. Sadly, the only two countries that have not signed on are Somalia and the United States! President Obama has pledged to ratify this pact as soon as possible, but at least the US is generally committed to such ideals. Nepal has signed on, but it does not seem to have honored its promise so far. Much work needs to be done in this small but confused country...
While the Nepalese government can be held responsible for many problems like poor roads, strikes, poverty, and infant mortality, it cannot be blamed for its melting glaciers. While this melting is being caused by other countries, especially the US and China, the effects of these problems can be disastrous for Nepal and the rest of Asia in the future. Nepal has hundreds of glaciers within its boundaries, and they are melting at a disturbingly fast rate. The rivers of Asia are supplied with over 300 million cubic ft of water each year from Himalayan glaciers (as much as half of the water flow of some major rivers, like the Indus River), according to the Center for Integrated Mountain Development in Kathmandu. If the glaciers continue to melt, there will be a short-term abundance of water in these rivers, followed by a long term loss of water. There is already a severe scarcity of water in most of South Asia and China - to further deplete the water supply from a world population that is growing spells trouble in the future (water war between India and China?). The bad news is that temperatures are rising faster in the Himalayas than the global average. In the last ten years, Nepal's average temperature has risen by .6 degrees celsius, while the world average is .7 degrees over 100 years! Huge portions of the glaciers in Tibet have already disappeared in the last 50 years, and 2/3 of them could be gone in 40 years, according to Chinese glaciologists. The Himalayan and Tibetan glaciers are known as the "Third Pole" after the Arctic and the Antarctic, and to lose such a valuable source of water would be catastrophic.
For all the problems that seem to be building up in this vulnerable country, there is an undeniable warmth that one feels here, especially in Kathmandu. The people are all extremely friendly, pleasant, and unaggressive - they are quick to smile, even when such problems surround them. They have a knack for enjoying life, and it is contagious! While the food may not be as good as Indian food, there are still some unique flavors to taste here. The old town of Kathmandu, with Durbar Square serving as its heart, is extremely atmospheric. The old buildings have doors and windows intricately carved out of dark brown wood, and the temples have a unique pagoda style that hints at the Chinese influence to the north, though the Nepalese style is still unique and refreshing. The Buddhist and Hindu faiths are both celebrated and practiced in Kathmandu with equal fervor, proving that a plurality of cultures exist in this pivotal city. Many streets have small passageways that open up into old courtyards, almost of an Italian design. Traces of a vibrant culture and wealthy past exist in the Kathmandu valley and other parts of Nepal, and there is hope in these outdated and ancient signs of a successful civilization.
It is very possible for Nepal to rise to the current challenges at the end of the day. I can only hope that the political will and ability that is required to solve such problems is as great and unyielding as the mighty Himalayas that call Nepal home...
Nepal has always been painted as a mystical land that is out of reach and isolated from the world. However, in reality it is located in the middle of a very important region of the world, and events that occur here undoubtedly have implications for other countries. The towering Himalayas and the flat plains of the subcontinent meet here. Glaciers that are found in Nepal and Tibet number in the hundreds, and supply water to most of South Asia's and China's major rivers - any changes in these glaciers will affect up to a quarter of the world's population. As well, the political struggles that are currently being played out in Nepal illustrate the competitive nature that exists between vastly different political ideologies - the uncompromising Communism also found in China to the north and the Democratic elements of Nepal that are found in India to the south. This struggle proves that methods of governing people are still being experimented with in many parts of the world. Nepal is a land that ultimately represents transition, whether it is from mountain to plain, or Communism to Capitalism. The Himalayas remind one of a great natural upheaval in the past, but the upheaval continues today in the form of Nepalese politics and the generally poor quality of life there...
Nepal reminds me of a teenager that has been blessed with incredibly good looks, but who is emotionally confused and dysfunctional. The mountains found within Nepal's borders are unequalled as far as sheer height and chiseled shape. The rivers send milky-blue glacier water through steep valleys full of lush forests and peaceful villages. There is even amazing jungle scenery to be found in the south. It is difficult to find a country with more breathtaking natural scenery, especially in such a concentrated area. Paradoxically, Nepal is one of the world's poorest countries, and it shows...
I thought that India had a poor infrastructure, but the roads found in Nepal pale in comparison. Driving down any of Nepal's roads or main highway in a bus is akin to riding in a covered wagon - vicious jolting is constant since potholes cover the roads. You almost have to check if your brain is securely inside your head after each ride is over. Much of the country is nearly inaccessible due to lack of roads, and tourists are pretty much limited to the middle part of the country. Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, is located in a valley ringed by high mountains, and so anyone that enters the city (from any direction) must first pass through these intimidating obstacles. The roads that lead into this most exotic and renowned of cities are all narrow, two lane mountain switchback roads that at times are made of bare dirt! Automobiles seem to barely move as they enter the city, and the cloud of dust and car exhaust that engulfs everything is a most unfitting welcome for such a highly regarded city in the world's history. The main arteries of the city are unbelievably clogged, and it is a supreme test of patience for one to successfully enter or exit Kathmandu at any time. If roads are a sign of a city's health, then Kathmandu is officially sclerotic.
Now the clogged roads are a problem, but it is a problem that is easily taken for granted. After two weeks in Nepal, I realized that it was a treat to even be allowed to USE the roads. In the middle of my stay here, there was a general strike called by the Maoist party of Nepal (the country's burgeoning Communist party). Before 2006, there was still a Monarch in charge of Nepal, as had been the case for over 200 years. Strikes like this rarely happened under the monarchy. After April of 2006, the king was reduced to a figurehead, and Nepal suddenly became a Democracy in the blink of a historical eye. Since then, political parties have been constantly jostling for power. While political fighting would never bring a country like the US to a standstill, it has proven to be a cruel form of punishment for the Nepalese people. The Maoist party in particular has resorted quite often to strikes as a form of blackmail when they feel they should be given more power. These are not little strikes where certain workers are not allowed to show up to work - these are thorough and uncompromising strikes. All schools, offices, factories, and shops are closed down in the entire country. Plus, no cars, motorcycles, taxis, or buses are allowed to operate on ANY street. The country becomes essentially non-functional, and this happened for 6 days while I was staying in Nepal (fortunately, I was on a trek in the mountains for a week and thus I was 100% unaffected by this strike!). When a country is literally not functional during my stay there, I can only assume that there are some very serious kinks that must be worked out. Communist ideology is clashing in a very aggressive way with the more democratic elements of Nepal. It is a country in the midst of a very transitional and immature phase of its political history...
The poverty and pollution that smothers Kathmandu is much greater than I ever expected. The first thing to note is that Nepal is not very populated- its official population is currently around 30 million people (just a little more than the whole city of Mumbai in India). I did not find Kathmandu to be as loud and intense as any of the large Indian cities, and there is not as much litter and filth on the streets (due to a smaller amount of people to drop the litter), but let's not subject Nepal to too many comparisons with India. Kathmandu is in a valley, which means that it cannot sprawl endlessly - there is a limit to the boundaries of the city. This means that there is a high density of people living in this city, even if there are only between 1 and 2 million people - these people still live in close quarters with each and there is a high degree of pollution. The rivers in Kathmandu, though holy to the Hindus, are of a rich black sludge that wreaks of sewage. While the rich live in comfortable homes, the poor Kathmandu residents live in tents and shanties along these putrid rivers - they have no jobs, so they beg and scrounge for food during the day. Car exhaust and other forms of pollution hover above the valley, trapped by the surrounding mountains, almost like a brown mist. Signs of overpopulation and urban stress are very easy to find in what was once a successful city-state in a tranquil valley.
For me the saddest part of Kathmandu was seeing the "glue boys," as I've taken to calling them. They are boys without a home, or parents, or even shoes. They walk the streets alone or in groups, and for recreation they huff toxic glue out of plastic and paper bags. From afar it seems as though they are blowing up a balloon, but the game they are playing is a far cry from the childlike innocence represented by balloons. They spend most of their day chasing a dangerous high, in a bleak daze. Everybody just walks right by them, even if the boys are getting high or passed out on the sidewalk in broad daylight. Nobody seems to care, or to want to help these young boys. It is a fitting example of the plight of many youth in the world. It is said that up to 150 million children are engaged in child labor in the world, while over 50 million do not have registered births. According to the UN, 4 million babies die each year before they are 1 month old (Nepal has the third highest infant mortality rate in the world). When it comes to the youngest people (and the future) of society, there is a huge lack of empathy and attention given to them by governments and ordinary citizens of the world. The UN Convention on the Rights of the Child was adopted in 1989, and it calls on all nations to protect children from sexual exploitation and abuse, to reduce child mortality and to give children access to free health care and education. Sadly, the only two countries that have not signed on are Somalia and the United States! President Obama has pledged to ratify this pact as soon as possible, but at least the US is generally committed to such ideals. Nepal has signed on, but it does not seem to have honored its promise so far. Much work needs to be done in this small but confused country...
While the Nepalese government can be held responsible for many problems like poor roads, strikes, poverty, and infant mortality, it cannot be blamed for its melting glaciers. While this melting is being caused by other countries, especially the US and China, the effects of these problems can be disastrous for Nepal and the rest of Asia in the future. Nepal has hundreds of glaciers within its boundaries, and they are melting at a disturbingly fast rate. The rivers of Asia are supplied with over 300 million cubic ft of water each year from Himalayan glaciers (as much as half of the water flow of some major rivers, like the Indus River), according to the Center for Integrated Mountain Development in Kathmandu. If the glaciers continue to melt, there will be a short-term abundance of water in these rivers, followed by a long term loss of water. There is already a severe scarcity of water in most of South Asia and China - to further deplete the water supply from a world population that is growing spells trouble in the future (water war between India and China?). The bad news is that temperatures are rising faster in the Himalayas than the global average. In the last ten years, Nepal's average temperature has risen by .6 degrees celsius, while the world average is .7 degrees over 100 years! Huge portions of the glaciers in Tibet have already disappeared in the last 50 years, and 2/3 of them could be gone in 40 years, according to Chinese glaciologists. The Himalayan and Tibetan glaciers are known as the "Third Pole" after the Arctic and the Antarctic, and to lose such a valuable source of water would be catastrophic.
For all the problems that seem to be building up in this vulnerable country, there is an undeniable warmth that one feels here, especially in Kathmandu. The people are all extremely friendly, pleasant, and unaggressive - they are quick to smile, even when such problems surround them. They have a knack for enjoying life, and it is contagious! While the food may not be as good as Indian food, there are still some unique flavors to taste here. The old town of Kathmandu, with Durbar Square serving as its heart, is extremely atmospheric. The old buildings have doors and windows intricately carved out of dark brown wood, and the temples have a unique pagoda style that hints at the Chinese influence to the north, though the Nepalese style is still unique and refreshing. The Buddhist and Hindu faiths are both celebrated and practiced in Kathmandu with equal fervor, proving that a plurality of cultures exist in this pivotal city. Many streets have small passageways that open up into old courtyards, almost of an Italian design. Traces of a vibrant culture and wealthy past exist in the Kathmandu valley and other parts of Nepal, and there is hope in these outdated and ancient signs of a successful civilization.
It is very possible for Nepal to rise to the current challenges at the end of the day. I can only hope that the political will and ability that is required to solve such problems is as great and unyielding as the mighty Himalayas that call Nepal home...
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