5/15/2010
Blog Break
I will not attempt to post any new blogs in the near future due to the possibility of Chinese censorship. Please check back in about 1 month. Thank you for your understanding...NICK
Nepali Growing Pains
The sight of the greatest collision in Earth's history - a land that suddenly rises from flat plains to the highest mountains in the world. A nation wedged between India and China, the two most populous countries in the world. A city shrouded in exoticism and mystery, welcoming hordes of traders as they travel the important trade route between Tibet and India. A Shangri-La of Himalayan proportions...
Nepal has always been painted as a mystical land that is out of reach and isolated from the world. However, in reality it is located in the middle of a very important region of the world, and events that occur here undoubtedly have implications for other countries. The towering Himalayas and the flat plains of the subcontinent meet here. Glaciers that are found in Nepal and Tibet number in the hundreds, and supply water to most of South Asia's and China's major rivers - any changes in these glaciers will affect up to a quarter of the world's population. As well, the political struggles that are currently being played out in Nepal illustrate the competitive nature that exists between vastly different political ideologies - the uncompromising Communism also found in China to the north and the Democratic elements of Nepal that are found in India to the south. This struggle proves that methods of governing people are still being experimented with in many parts of the world. Nepal is a land that ultimately represents transition, whether it is from mountain to plain, or Communism to Capitalism. The Himalayas remind one of a great natural upheaval in the past, but the upheaval continues today in the form of Nepalese politics and the generally poor quality of life there...
Nepal reminds me of a teenager that has been blessed with incredibly good looks, but who is emotionally confused and dysfunctional. The mountains found within Nepal's borders are unequalled as far as sheer height and chiseled shape. The rivers send milky-blue glacier water through steep valleys full of lush forests and peaceful villages. There is even amazing jungle scenery to be found in the south. It is difficult to find a country with more breathtaking natural scenery, especially in such a concentrated area. Paradoxically, Nepal is one of the world's poorest countries, and it shows...
I thought that India had a poor infrastructure, but the roads found in Nepal pale in comparison. Driving down any of Nepal's roads or main highway in a bus is akin to riding in a covered wagon - vicious jolting is constant since potholes cover the roads. You almost have to check if your brain is securely inside your head after each ride is over. Much of the country is nearly inaccessible due to lack of roads, and tourists are pretty much limited to the middle part of the country. Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, is located in a valley ringed by high mountains, and so anyone that enters the city (from any direction) must first pass through these intimidating obstacles. The roads that lead into this most exotic and renowned of cities are all narrow, two lane mountain switchback roads that at times are made of bare dirt! Automobiles seem to barely move as they enter the city, and the cloud of dust and car exhaust that engulfs everything is a most unfitting welcome for such a highly regarded city in the world's history. The main arteries of the city are unbelievably clogged, and it is a supreme test of patience for one to successfully enter or exit Kathmandu at any time. If roads are a sign of a city's health, then Kathmandu is officially sclerotic.
Now the clogged roads are a problem, but it is a problem that is easily taken for granted. After two weeks in Nepal, I realized that it was a treat to even be allowed to USE the roads. In the middle of my stay here, there was a general strike called by the Maoist party of Nepal (the country's burgeoning Communist party). Before 2006, there was still a Monarch in charge of Nepal, as had been the case for over 200 years. Strikes like this rarely happened under the monarchy. After April of 2006, the king was reduced to a figurehead, and Nepal suddenly became a Democracy in the blink of a historical eye. Since then, political parties have been constantly jostling for power. While political fighting would never bring a country like the US to a standstill, it has proven to be a cruel form of punishment for the Nepalese people. The Maoist party in particular has resorted quite often to strikes as a form of blackmail when they feel they should be given more power. These are not little strikes where certain workers are not allowed to show up to work - these are thorough and uncompromising strikes. All schools, offices, factories, and shops are closed down in the entire country. Plus, no cars, motorcycles, taxis, or buses are allowed to operate on ANY street. The country becomes essentially non-functional, and this happened for 6 days while I was staying in Nepal (fortunately, I was on a trek in the mountains for a week and thus I was 100% unaffected by this strike!). When a country is literally not functional during my stay there, I can only assume that there are some very serious kinks that must be worked out. Communist ideology is clashing in a very aggressive way with the more democratic elements of Nepal. It is a country in the midst of a very transitional and immature phase of its political history...
The poverty and pollution that smothers Kathmandu is much greater than I ever expected. The first thing to note is that Nepal is not very populated- its official population is currently around 30 million people (just a little more than the whole city of Mumbai in India). I did not find Kathmandu to be as loud and intense as any of the large Indian cities, and there is not as much litter and filth on the streets (due to a smaller amount of people to drop the litter), but let's not subject Nepal to too many comparisons with India. Kathmandu is in a valley, which means that it cannot sprawl endlessly - there is a limit to the boundaries of the city. This means that there is a high density of people living in this city, even if there are only between 1 and 2 million people - these people still live in close quarters with each and there is a high degree of pollution. The rivers in Kathmandu, though holy to the Hindus, are of a rich black sludge that wreaks of sewage. While the rich live in comfortable homes, the poor Kathmandu residents live in tents and shanties along these putrid rivers - they have no jobs, so they beg and scrounge for food during the day. Car exhaust and other forms of pollution hover above the valley, trapped by the surrounding mountains, almost like a brown mist. Signs of overpopulation and urban stress are very easy to find in what was once a successful city-state in a tranquil valley.
For me the saddest part of Kathmandu was seeing the "glue boys," as I've taken to calling them. They are boys without a home, or parents, or even shoes. They walk the streets alone or in groups, and for recreation they huff toxic glue out of plastic and paper bags. From afar it seems as though they are blowing up a balloon, but the game they are playing is a far cry from the childlike innocence represented by balloons. They spend most of their day chasing a dangerous high, in a bleak daze. Everybody just walks right by them, even if the boys are getting high or passed out on the sidewalk in broad daylight. Nobody seems to care, or to want to help these young boys. It is a fitting example of the plight of many youth in the world. It is said that up to 150 million children are engaged in child labor in the world, while over 50 million do not have registered births. According to the UN, 4 million babies die each year before they are 1 month old (Nepal has the third highest infant mortality rate in the world). When it comes to the youngest people (and the future) of society, there is a huge lack of empathy and attention given to them by governments and ordinary citizens of the world. The UN Convention on the Rights of the Child was adopted in 1989, and it calls on all nations to protect children from sexual exploitation and abuse, to reduce child mortality and to give children access to free health care and education. Sadly, the only two countries that have not signed on are Somalia and the United States! President Obama has pledged to ratify this pact as soon as possible, but at least the US is generally committed to such ideals. Nepal has signed on, but it does not seem to have honored its promise so far. Much work needs to be done in this small but confused country...
While the Nepalese government can be held responsible for many problems like poor roads, strikes, poverty, and infant mortality, it cannot be blamed for its melting glaciers. While this melting is being caused by other countries, especially the US and China, the effects of these problems can be disastrous for Nepal and the rest of Asia in the future. Nepal has hundreds of glaciers within its boundaries, and they are melting at a disturbingly fast rate. The rivers of Asia are supplied with over 300 million cubic ft of water each year from Himalayan glaciers (as much as half of the water flow of some major rivers, like the Indus River), according to the Center for Integrated Mountain Development in Kathmandu. If the glaciers continue to melt, there will be a short-term abundance of water in these rivers, followed by a long term loss of water. There is already a severe scarcity of water in most of South Asia and China - to further deplete the water supply from a world population that is growing spells trouble in the future (water war between India and China?). The bad news is that temperatures are rising faster in the Himalayas than the global average. In the last ten years, Nepal's average temperature has risen by .6 degrees celsius, while the world average is .7 degrees over 100 years! Huge portions of the glaciers in Tibet have already disappeared in the last 50 years, and 2/3 of them could be gone in 40 years, according to Chinese glaciologists. The Himalayan and Tibetan glaciers are known as the "Third Pole" after the Arctic and the Antarctic, and to lose such a valuable source of water would be catastrophic.
For all the problems that seem to be building up in this vulnerable country, there is an undeniable warmth that one feels here, especially in Kathmandu. The people are all extremely friendly, pleasant, and unaggressive - they are quick to smile, even when such problems surround them. They have a knack for enjoying life, and it is contagious! While the food may not be as good as Indian food, there are still some unique flavors to taste here. The old town of Kathmandu, with Durbar Square serving as its heart, is extremely atmospheric. The old buildings have doors and windows intricately carved out of dark brown wood, and the temples have a unique pagoda style that hints at the Chinese influence to the north, though the Nepalese style is still unique and refreshing. The Buddhist and Hindu faiths are both celebrated and practiced in Kathmandu with equal fervor, proving that a plurality of cultures exist in this pivotal city. Many streets have small passageways that open up into old courtyards, almost of an Italian design. Traces of a vibrant culture and wealthy past exist in the Kathmandu valley and other parts of Nepal, and there is hope in these outdated and ancient signs of a successful civilization.
It is very possible for Nepal to rise to the current challenges at the end of the day. I can only hope that the political will and ability that is required to solve such problems is as great and unyielding as the mighty Himalayas that call Nepal home...
Nepal has always been painted as a mystical land that is out of reach and isolated from the world. However, in reality it is located in the middle of a very important region of the world, and events that occur here undoubtedly have implications for other countries. The towering Himalayas and the flat plains of the subcontinent meet here. Glaciers that are found in Nepal and Tibet number in the hundreds, and supply water to most of South Asia's and China's major rivers - any changes in these glaciers will affect up to a quarter of the world's population. As well, the political struggles that are currently being played out in Nepal illustrate the competitive nature that exists between vastly different political ideologies - the uncompromising Communism also found in China to the north and the Democratic elements of Nepal that are found in India to the south. This struggle proves that methods of governing people are still being experimented with in many parts of the world. Nepal is a land that ultimately represents transition, whether it is from mountain to plain, or Communism to Capitalism. The Himalayas remind one of a great natural upheaval in the past, but the upheaval continues today in the form of Nepalese politics and the generally poor quality of life there...
Nepal reminds me of a teenager that has been blessed with incredibly good looks, but who is emotionally confused and dysfunctional. The mountains found within Nepal's borders are unequalled as far as sheer height and chiseled shape. The rivers send milky-blue glacier water through steep valleys full of lush forests and peaceful villages. There is even amazing jungle scenery to be found in the south. It is difficult to find a country with more breathtaking natural scenery, especially in such a concentrated area. Paradoxically, Nepal is one of the world's poorest countries, and it shows...
I thought that India had a poor infrastructure, but the roads found in Nepal pale in comparison. Driving down any of Nepal's roads or main highway in a bus is akin to riding in a covered wagon - vicious jolting is constant since potholes cover the roads. You almost have to check if your brain is securely inside your head after each ride is over. Much of the country is nearly inaccessible due to lack of roads, and tourists are pretty much limited to the middle part of the country. Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, is located in a valley ringed by high mountains, and so anyone that enters the city (from any direction) must first pass through these intimidating obstacles. The roads that lead into this most exotic and renowned of cities are all narrow, two lane mountain switchback roads that at times are made of bare dirt! Automobiles seem to barely move as they enter the city, and the cloud of dust and car exhaust that engulfs everything is a most unfitting welcome for such a highly regarded city in the world's history. The main arteries of the city are unbelievably clogged, and it is a supreme test of patience for one to successfully enter or exit Kathmandu at any time. If roads are a sign of a city's health, then Kathmandu is officially sclerotic.
Now the clogged roads are a problem, but it is a problem that is easily taken for granted. After two weeks in Nepal, I realized that it was a treat to even be allowed to USE the roads. In the middle of my stay here, there was a general strike called by the Maoist party of Nepal (the country's burgeoning Communist party). Before 2006, there was still a Monarch in charge of Nepal, as had been the case for over 200 years. Strikes like this rarely happened under the monarchy. After April of 2006, the king was reduced to a figurehead, and Nepal suddenly became a Democracy in the blink of a historical eye. Since then, political parties have been constantly jostling for power. While political fighting would never bring a country like the US to a standstill, it has proven to be a cruel form of punishment for the Nepalese people. The Maoist party in particular has resorted quite often to strikes as a form of blackmail when they feel they should be given more power. These are not little strikes where certain workers are not allowed to show up to work - these are thorough and uncompromising strikes. All schools, offices, factories, and shops are closed down in the entire country. Plus, no cars, motorcycles, taxis, or buses are allowed to operate on ANY street. The country becomes essentially non-functional, and this happened for 6 days while I was staying in Nepal (fortunately, I was on a trek in the mountains for a week and thus I was 100% unaffected by this strike!). When a country is literally not functional during my stay there, I can only assume that there are some very serious kinks that must be worked out. Communist ideology is clashing in a very aggressive way with the more democratic elements of Nepal. It is a country in the midst of a very transitional and immature phase of its political history...
The poverty and pollution that smothers Kathmandu is much greater than I ever expected. The first thing to note is that Nepal is not very populated- its official population is currently around 30 million people (just a little more than the whole city of Mumbai in India). I did not find Kathmandu to be as loud and intense as any of the large Indian cities, and there is not as much litter and filth on the streets (due to a smaller amount of people to drop the litter), but let's not subject Nepal to too many comparisons with India. Kathmandu is in a valley, which means that it cannot sprawl endlessly - there is a limit to the boundaries of the city. This means that there is a high density of people living in this city, even if there are only between 1 and 2 million people - these people still live in close quarters with each and there is a high degree of pollution. The rivers in Kathmandu, though holy to the Hindus, are of a rich black sludge that wreaks of sewage. While the rich live in comfortable homes, the poor Kathmandu residents live in tents and shanties along these putrid rivers - they have no jobs, so they beg and scrounge for food during the day. Car exhaust and other forms of pollution hover above the valley, trapped by the surrounding mountains, almost like a brown mist. Signs of overpopulation and urban stress are very easy to find in what was once a successful city-state in a tranquil valley.
For me the saddest part of Kathmandu was seeing the "glue boys," as I've taken to calling them. They are boys without a home, or parents, or even shoes. They walk the streets alone or in groups, and for recreation they huff toxic glue out of plastic and paper bags. From afar it seems as though they are blowing up a balloon, but the game they are playing is a far cry from the childlike innocence represented by balloons. They spend most of their day chasing a dangerous high, in a bleak daze. Everybody just walks right by them, even if the boys are getting high or passed out on the sidewalk in broad daylight. Nobody seems to care, or to want to help these young boys. It is a fitting example of the plight of many youth in the world. It is said that up to 150 million children are engaged in child labor in the world, while over 50 million do not have registered births. According to the UN, 4 million babies die each year before they are 1 month old (Nepal has the third highest infant mortality rate in the world). When it comes to the youngest people (and the future) of society, there is a huge lack of empathy and attention given to them by governments and ordinary citizens of the world. The UN Convention on the Rights of the Child was adopted in 1989, and it calls on all nations to protect children from sexual exploitation and abuse, to reduce child mortality and to give children access to free health care and education. Sadly, the only two countries that have not signed on are Somalia and the United States! President Obama has pledged to ratify this pact as soon as possible, but at least the US is generally committed to such ideals. Nepal has signed on, but it does not seem to have honored its promise so far. Much work needs to be done in this small but confused country...
While the Nepalese government can be held responsible for many problems like poor roads, strikes, poverty, and infant mortality, it cannot be blamed for its melting glaciers. While this melting is being caused by other countries, especially the US and China, the effects of these problems can be disastrous for Nepal and the rest of Asia in the future. Nepal has hundreds of glaciers within its boundaries, and they are melting at a disturbingly fast rate. The rivers of Asia are supplied with over 300 million cubic ft of water each year from Himalayan glaciers (as much as half of the water flow of some major rivers, like the Indus River), according to the Center for Integrated Mountain Development in Kathmandu. If the glaciers continue to melt, there will be a short-term abundance of water in these rivers, followed by a long term loss of water. There is already a severe scarcity of water in most of South Asia and China - to further deplete the water supply from a world population that is growing spells trouble in the future (water war between India and China?). The bad news is that temperatures are rising faster in the Himalayas than the global average. In the last ten years, Nepal's average temperature has risen by .6 degrees celsius, while the world average is .7 degrees over 100 years! Huge portions of the glaciers in Tibet have already disappeared in the last 50 years, and 2/3 of them could be gone in 40 years, according to Chinese glaciologists. The Himalayan and Tibetan glaciers are known as the "Third Pole" after the Arctic and the Antarctic, and to lose such a valuable source of water would be catastrophic.
For all the problems that seem to be building up in this vulnerable country, there is an undeniable warmth that one feels here, especially in Kathmandu. The people are all extremely friendly, pleasant, and unaggressive - they are quick to smile, even when such problems surround them. They have a knack for enjoying life, and it is contagious! While the food may not be as good as Indian food, there are still some unique flavors to taste here. The old town of Kathmandu, with Durbar Square serving as its heart, is extremely atmospheric. The old buildings have doors and windows intricately carved out of dark brown wood, and the temples have a unique pagoda style that hints at the Chinese influence to the north, though the Nepalese style is still unique and refreshing. The Buddhist and Hindu faiths are both celebrated and practiced in Kathmandu with equal fervor, proving that a plurality of cultures exist in this pivotal city. Many streets have small passageways that open up into old courtyards, almost of an Italian design. Traces of a vibrant culture and wealthy past exist in the Kathmandu valley and other parts of Nepal, and there is hope in these outdated and ancient signs of a successful civilization.
It is very possible for Nepal to rise to the current challenges at the end of the day. I can only hope that the political will and ability that is required to solve such problems is as great and unyielding as the mighty Himalayas that call Nepal home...
4/28/2010
Kolkata: Between River Mouths and Ranges
The Golden Rule for locating any large city: look near bodies of water, such as rivers or oceans. Water is essential for many things - growing crops, fishing, transportation/trade, and drinking water, among others. I dare anybody to find an important city that is not adhering to this rule...
Kolkata (AKA Calcutta) is no exception, and in fact it is located on some of the most prime real estate on Earth. Not only is India's second biggest city (pop. 16-17 million) located on the large Hooghly River, but it is a mere 2 hour drive from the Ganges River Delta, which is the largest river delta in the world. If that is not enough, the Bay of Bengal begins where the holy river meets the ocean, known as the "Mouths of the Ganges," providing a sea route that connects Kolkata with the entire world. It is no coincidence that one of the most extraordinarily dense populations of people live in the Indian state of West Bengal, as well as the neighboring country Bangladesh. The more water there is, the greater amount of people can be sustained. Kolkata has been an important city for hundreds of years. It is most famous for being the capital of the British Empire, as it's strategic location between the ocean and the Himalayan mountains made it an easy choice. Though it was inhabited for centuries before the British came, its population grew significantly during British rule. It soon became a commercial center for the tea, coal, iron, and steel industries - it continues to be one. Kolkata was also the home base for influential people like Ramakrishna, Mother Theresa, and the author Rabindranath Tagore (I highly recommend his "Selected Short Stories").
When walking the streets of Kolkata, one gets the feeling of being swept up in a carnival of humanity. It is not a happy or fun carnival though. It is an overwhelming, chaotic, but somehow charming carnival. It is here that you will see people surviving and coexisting in the most pure and nonchalant ways. The most important thing to note is that space almost seems like a consolation prize in this city. Cars, rickshaws, and pedestrians fiercely fight for space on the roads and sidewalks. You will never encounter a more aggressive, but relaxed taxi driver. And no where else will you find a person in such a casual, deep sleep on a major sidewalk - he may even be happy to find such a great spot! I saw people living inside piles of garbage along a major road, and they weren't at all ashamed of it! The city feels more packed than the other cities I have encountered so far, but it does not feel awkward to walk among such a dense crowd. People are everywhere, but nobody seems to actually mind in the end, though they may jostle for space. The people here ultimately exercise great patience and grace in dealing with each other, as all residents realize that they must share what little space there is. Things move slowly here, but they indeed move. Imagine the parking lot right after a major sporting event, and you begin to get an idea of the atmosphere of a street in Kolkata.
But Kolkata has a very old-world charm to it. Many of the buildings in the center of town date back to the British Empire, and are stunning to look at. The Post Office, Train Stations, and Victoria Memorial are among some of the nicest colonial architecture in India, and maybe the world. A visit to the "Indian Museum" is like taking a step into mid 19th century England, as some of the exhibits even seem to have centuries old dust collected on them. Beautiful Hindu temples abound in the city, as do churches. Kolkata is also one of the last cities in the world to still allow hand-pulled rickshaws to operate - the barefooted rickshaw pullers are a recognizable relic of an older India. Amidst the sad poverty and heaps of garbage everywhere, there is at least a reminder of the past, which makes Kolkata a city that always provokes much thought and imagination. One can almost feel the history of this great urban center, whether it be good or bad.
Ironically, the location that put Kolkata on the map could end up erasing it from the map. According to the School of Oceanographic Studies @ Jadaupur University in Kolkata, sea levels rose by about .12 inches per year until 2000. Since then, sea levels have risen .2 inches each year. If you want more proof of rising ocean levels, a review of recent news will reveal that New Moore Island, located in Sunderbans Tiger Reserve (in the heart of the Ganges River Delta), has recently been completely submerged! The only good news about this is that India and Bangladesh will stop fighting over who owns it now.. This disappearing island is a possible sign of things to come in the future. Sea level rise does not occur when arctic ice melts, but rather when land-based ice sheets and glaciers melt and then drain into the ocean. According to the Inter-Governmental Panel on Climate Change, Greenland has lost more than 1.5 trillion tons of ice since 2000, and it's ice sheets are melting twice as fast now as they were seven years ago. Meanwhile, Antarctica has lost about 1 trillion tons since 2002.
Such changes in ocean level may have severe consequences for Kolkata and neighboring Bangladesh. According to the NASA Goddard Institute for Space Studies, by 2100, the entire population of Bangladesh (about 145 million people) will be displaced because the entire landmass of the country will be underwater! 18% of its coastal area will be underwater and 20 million people will be displaced if sea levels rise by more than 3 ft, which it is predicted to do by 2050. Tigers in the Sunderbans Tiger Reserve have begun to migrate North due to the rising sea levels in the Bay of Bengal, to the south of them. People are crammed into this area already, and so tiger attacks have been on the rise in recent years as tigers and people are now forced to coexist. While tigers are moving to escape the rising ocean, humans may soon follow suit. Darjeeling and other Indian hill towns in the Himalayas to the North could find their populations swelling dramatically in the near future - a haven from the encroaching ocean...
Kolkata and its neighboring regions are situated in a fertile location that has allowed millions of people to survive for centuries. It is the biggest reason that the city has been home to so many for so long. But this and other cities that cling to the waterways of the world could one day find themselves with too much water at their shores and riverbanks. It is a strange paradox, that what gives life may also take it away just as easily. Kolkata is a perfect example of the fine balance that has so far been achieved, but what may one day crumble like castles made of sand...
Kolkata (AKA Calcutta) is no exception, and in fact it is located on some of the most prime real estate on Earth. Not only is India's second biggest city (pop. 16-17 million) located on the large Hooghly River, but it is a mere 2 hour drive from the Ganges River Delta, which is the largest river delta in the world. If that is not enough, the Bay of Bengal begins where the holy river meets the ocean, known as the "Mouths of the Ganges," providing a sea route that connects Kolkata with the entire world. It is no coincidence that one of the most extraordinarily dense populations of people live in the Indian state of West Bengal, as well as the neighboring country Bangladesh. The more water there is, the greater amount of people can be sustained. Kolkata has been an important city for hundreds of years. It is most famous for being the capital of the British Empire, as it's strategic location between the ocean and the Himalayan mountains made it an easy choice. Though it was inhabited for centuries before the British came, its population grew significantly during British rule. It soon became a commercial center for the tea, coal, iron, and steel industries - it continues to be one. Kolkata was also the home base for influential people like Ramakrishna, Mother Theresa, and the author Rabindranath Tagore (I highly recommend his "Selected Short Stories").
When walking the streets of Kolkata, one gets the feeling of being swept up in a carnival of humanity. It is not a happy or fun carnival though. It is an overwhelming, chaotic, but somehow charming carnival. It is here that you will see people surviving and coexisting in the most pure and nonchalant ways. The most important thing to note is that space almost seems like a consolation prize in this city. Cars, rickshaws, and pedestrians fiercely fight for space on the roads and sidewalks. You will never encounter a more aggressive, but relaxed taxi driver. And no where else will you find a person in such a casual, deep sleep on a major sidewalk - he may even be happy to find such a great spot! I saw people living inside piles of garbage along a major road, and they weren't at all ashamed of it! The city feels more packed than the other cities I have encountered so far, but it does not feel awkward to walk among such a dense crowd. People are everywhere, but nobody seems to actually mind in the end, though they may jostle for space. The people here ultimately exercise great patience and grace in dealing with each other, as all residents realize that they must share what little space there is. Things move slowly here, but they indeed move. Imagine the parking lot right after a major sporting event, and you begin to get an idea of the atmosphere of a street in Kolkata.
But Kolkata has a very old-world charm to it. Many of the buildings in the center of town date back to the British Empire, and are stunning to look at. The Post Office, Train Stations, and Victoria Memorial are among some of the nicest colonial architecture in India, and maybe the world. A visit to the "Indian Museum" is like taking a step into mid 19th century England, as some of the exhibits even seem to have centuries old dust collected on them. Beautiful Hindu temples abound in the city, as do churches. Kolkata is also one of the last cities in the world to still allow hand-pulled rickshaws to operate - the barefooted rickshaw pullers are a recognizable relic of an older India. Amidst the sad poverty and heaps of garbage everywhere, there is at least a reminder of the past, which makes Kolkata a city that always provokes much thought and imagination. One can almost feel the history of this great urban center, whether it be good or bad.
Ironically, the location that put Kolkata on the map could end up erasing it from the map. According to the School of Oceanographic Studies @ Jadaupur University in Kolkata, sea levels rose by about .12 inches per year until 2000. Since then, sea levels have risen .2 inches each year. If you want more proof of rising ocean levels, a review of recent news will reveal that New Moore Island, located in Sunderbans Tiger Reserve (in the heart of the Ganges River Delta), has recently been completely submerged! The only good news about this is that India and Bangladesh will stop fighting over who owns it now.. This disappearing island is a possible sign of things to come in the future. Sea level rise does not occur when arctic ice melts, but rather when land-based ice sheets and glaciers melt and then drain into the ocean. According to the Inter-Governmental Panel on Climate Change, Greenland has lost more than 1.5 trillion tons of ice since 2000, and it's ice sheets are melting twice as fast now as they were seven years ago. Meanwhile, Antarctica has lost about 1 trillion tons since 2002.
Such changes in ocean level may have severe consequences for Kolkata and neighboring Bangladesh. According to the NASA Goddard Institute for Space Studies, by 2100, the entire population of Bangladesh (about 145 million people) will be displaced because the entire landmass of the country will be underwater! 18% of its coastal area will be underwater and 20 million people will be displaced if sea levels rise by more than 3 ft, which it is predicted to do by 2050. Tigers in the Sunderbans Tiger Reserve have begun to migrate North due to the rising sea levels in the Bay of Bengal, to the south of them. People are crammed into this area already, and so tiger attacks have been on the rise in recent years as tigers and people are now forced to coexist. While tigers are moving to escape the rising ocean, humans may soon follow suit. Darjeeling and other Indian hill towns in the Himalayas to the North could find their populations swelling dramatically in the near future - a haven from the encroaching ocean...
Kolkata and its neighboring regions are situated in a fertile location that has allowed millions of people to survive for centuries. It is the biggest reason that the city has been home to so many for so long. But this and other cities that cling to the waterways of the world could one day find themselves with too much water at their shores and riverbanks. It is a strange paradox, that what gives life may also take it away just as easily. Kolkata is a perfect example of the fine balance that has so far been achieved, but what may one day crumble like castles made of sand...
4/08/2010
Shy Chennai
If a city had feelings, I would almost feel sorry for Chennai. Being the fourth biggest city in India, with at least ten million people, it is constantly asked to stand next to world-renowned and grand cities such as Mumbai and Kolkata. But has anybody even heard of Chennai?
For one thing, it's name was changed from Madras no more than 5 years ago - a crushing blow to a relatively unknown metropolis. How would you feel if your name was suddenly changed after hundreds of years? But that is beside the point, because most people would still be unfamiliar with this sprawling capital of Tamil Nadu (in the SE corner of India). It is the bassist of India's band - it plays a large role in keeping things (especially the economy) moving, but it is rarely recognized and given any credit. Chennai is the Art Garfunkel of India, hiding behind the shadow of more popular sidekicks. It does not have the distinction of being the former capital of the British Empire (as Kolkata was), nor is it the political (New Delhi) or financial powerhouse of India (Mumbai). It is the shy one of the pack, unable to fully assert itself on the world stage, at least yet...
I found Chennai to be neither captivating nor offensive. It was so very hot and humid there that I found myself near delirium at times. The streets are wide and not TOO dirty, but they swing and curve in a very disorienting manner, and it is not easy to navigate the city without the aid of a rickshaw driver. I visited the beach there, but it was extremely dirty and smelled like rotting fish. But it had an interesting old fort left by the British, a good museum, and a Court building and train station with nice architecture and a rich coat of red paint on them. As well, there is a decent public transportation system for those who know their way around the city, and the airport was very nice. And I ate great South Indian food, including fantastic Idlis (rice cakes). The people were friendlier than most Indian city folk that I have run into. They are probably not used to having many visitors, so they were surprised but more than happy to talk with me, or at least flash a smile. This is a major city with plenty of business to take care of, especially in the IT department. Therefore, many people were dressed in nice suits and talking on their mobile phones (after all, India now has a total of about 500 million mobile phone users!). It is a very modern city, despite its lack of obvious draws.
I was most impressed by the police in Chennai. I actually saw police giving out traffic tickets! I know this is something that everybody hates about the police, but if you had seen an entire country's police force sit around and do nothing while people constantly broke the most basic traffic rules right in front of them (like driving on the right side of the road), you would be impressed with this particular police force like I was. In general, India's police are some of the most corrupt people in the country. They are notorious for practically living off of bribes, and they never seem to do anything to serve and protect the Indian people (they prefer to make life harder for people). According to the National Human Rights Commission, 346 Indian people have died in extrajudicial police killings since 2006! Such killings and other abuses of power are usually done for personal gain, such as settling scores between businessmen, crime bosses, and politicians. Imagine your local policeman acting as judge, jury, and executioner...it is not how things should work. The police in Chennai at least seemed to be doing parts of their job properly and in the open, which I was relieved to see.
I was also impressed by how many female police officers I encountered. India is a society dominated by males in almost every aspect. I happened to be reading the local newspaper (The Telegraph) just yesterday here in India, and it showed the newly released World Economic Forum's Gender Gap Index Report of 2009 - it reports that the situation for women in India continues to be among the worst on the planet. Out of 134 countries, its overall ranking was 114! Both the "Health & Survival" ranking as well as the "Sex Ratio" was at 131 (no wonder I seem to see mostly men everywhere I go in this country)! Throughout my time in India, I had not seen a female in a position of power, until I came to Tamil Nadu, and especially Chennai. I saw many female law enforcers in this part of the country, and it was very encouraging. It sets a great example for the rest of the country.
In general, Tamil Nadu (and neighboring Kerala state) are at the forefront of India's development. There is a saying that "the future of India is in the South." In North India, about 70% of public resources are diverted, while in Tamil Nadu, only 30% are diverted. This means that more money is spent on actual projects to improve the lives of people, rather than lining the pockets of politicians and government workers. In Tamil Nadu, there is good, infrastructure, strong private investment and high employment as a result of this. Is it a coincidence that Tamil Nadu is the most urbanized state in India (1/2 of people live in cities), while the state of Bihar is the poorest and least urbanized (10% live in cities)?
The literacy rate is also key to development. No industrial society has a literacy rate under 80% - India has a rate of around 62%. 60% of India's illiterate people are female, which speaks volumes about the disproportionate chances women are given for a proper education in comparison to men. Kerala is by far the richest state in India, and it also has a literacy rate of 100%, due to free and compulsory education. India's illiterate population is hobbling the country, and a majority of these people are women. When this problem is fixed, India will improve economically and socially. It is hard to deny that most children in the world spend a majority of their time with their mother. The smarter the mother is, the smarter the child will likely become. Empowering women is a quick and effective way to improve the situation of the country, and Chennai seems to be at the forefront of this.
In the end, Chennai does not have the historical legacy or attractive appearance that other big cities in India have. But what is important is that it's leading the others in many ways, like in gender equality, the rule of law, and effective infrastructure. For this, Chennai has no need to be shy...
For one thing, it's name was changed from Madras no more than 5 years ago - a crushing blow to a relatively unknown metropolis. How would you feel if your name was suddenly changed after hundreds of years? But that is beside the point, because most people would still be unfamiliar with this sprawling capital of Tamil Nadu (in the SE corner of India). It is the bassist of India's band - it plays a large role in keeping things (especially the economy) moving, but it is rarely recognized and given any credit. Chennai is the Art Garfunkel of India, hiding behind the shadow of more popular sidekicks. It does not have the distinction of being the former capital of the British Empire (as Kolkata was), nor is it the political (New Delhi) or financial powerhouse of India (Mumbai). It is the shy one of the pack, unable to fully assert itself on the world stage, at least yet...
I found Chennai to be neither captivating nor offensive. It was so very hot and humid there that I found myself near delirium at times. The streets are wide and not TOO dirty, but they swing and curve in a very disorienting manner, and it is not easy to navigate the city without the aid of a rickshaw driver. I visited the beach there, but it was extremely dirty and smelled like rotting fish. But it had an interesting old fort left by the British, a good museum, and a Court building and train station with nice architecture and a rich coat of red paint on them. As well, there is a decent public transportation system for those who know their way around the city, and the airport was very nice. And I ate great South Indian food, including fantastic Idlis (rice cakes). The people were friendlier than most Indian city folk that I have run into. They are probably not used to having many visitors, so they were surprised but more than happy to talk with me, or at least flash a smile. This is a major city with plenty of business to take care of, especially in the IT department. Therefore, many people were dressed in nice suits and talking on their mobile phones (after all, India now has a total of about 500 million mobile phone users!). It is a very modern city, despite its lack of obvious draws.
I was most impressed by the police in Chennai. I actually saw police giving out traffic tickets! I know this is something that everybody hates about the police, but if you had seen an entire country's police force sit around and do nothing while people constantly broke the most basic traffic rules right in front of them (like driving on the right side of the road), you would be impressed with this particular police force like I was. In general, India's police are some of the most corrupt people in the country. They are notorious for practically living off of bribes, and they never seem to do anything to serve and protect the Indian people (they prefer to make life harder for people). According to the National Human Rights Commission, 346 Indian people have died in extrajudicial police killings since 2006! Such killings and other abuses of power are usually done for personal gain, such as settling scores between businessmen, crime bosses, and politicians. Imagine your local policeman acting as judge, jury, and executioner...it is not how things should work. The police in Chennai at least seemed to be doing parts of their job properly and in the open, which I was relieved to see.
I was also impressed by how many female police officers I encountered. India is a society dominated by males in almost every aspect. I happened to be reading the local newspaper (The Telegraph) just yesterday here in India, and it showed the newly released World Economic Forum's Gender Gap Index Report of 2009 - it reports that the situation for women in India continues to be among the worst on the planet. Out of 134 countries, its overall ranking was 114! Both the "Health & Survival" ranking as well as the "Sex Ratio" was at 131 (no wonder I seem to see mostly men everywhere I go in this country)! Throughout my time in India, I had not seen a female in a position of power, until I came to Tamil Nadu, and especially Chennai. I saw many female law enforcers in this part of the country, and it was very encouraging. It sets a great example for the rest of the country.
In general, Tamil Nadu (and neighboring Kerala state) are at the forefront of India's development. There is a saying that "the future of India is in the South." In North India, about 70% of public resources are diverted, while in Tamil Nadu, only 30% are diverted. This means that more money is spent on actual projects to improve the lives of people, rather than lining the pockets of politicians and government workers. In Tamil Nadu, there is good, infrastructure, strong private investment and high employment as a result of this. Is it a coincidence that Tamil Nadu is the most urbanized state in India (1/2 of people live in cities), while the state of Bihar is the poorest and least urbanized (10% live in cities)?
The literacy rate is also key to development. No industrial society has a literacy rate under 80% - India has a rate of around 62%. 60% of India's illiterate people are female, which speaks volumes about the disproportionate chances women are given for a proper education in comparison to men. Kerala is by far the richest state in India, and it also has a literacy rate of 100%, due to free and compulsory education. India's illiterate population is hobbling the country, and a majority of these people are women. When this problem is fixed, India will improve economically and socially. It is hard to deny that most children in the world spend a majority of their time with their mother. The smarter the mother is, the smarter the child will likely become. Empowering women is a quick and effective way to improve the situation of the country, and Chennai seems to be at the forefront of this.
In the end, Chennai does not have the historical legacy or attractive appearance that other big cities in India have. But what is important is that it's leading the others in many ways, like in gender equality, the rule of law, and effective infrastructure. For this, Chennai has no need to be shy...
3/22/2010
Inside Bengaluru
There is a good chance that you have spoken to somebody in Bengaluru (AKA Bangalore)...
Whenever you have a problem with your printer, your computer, or any other piece of technology, you are usually patched over to somebody at a call center who speaks English with an Indian accent. These people are often stationed in Bengaluru, which is India's (and the world's) homebase for call centers, as well as a hub of Information Technology (IT) and software. The city has for years attracted a diverse portion of India's best and brightest. Because of this, Bengaluru has a very youthful, intelligent population, not to mention the fine dining and nightlife that comes along with it.
To the casual visitor, the city does not seem very interesting. To paraphrase my friend and Bengaluru local Amrit Dhir, 'this city is not necessarily great for visiting or sightseeing, but it is possibly the best city in India to live in.' And he is right. There are very few old neighborhoods, or interesting temples and mosques - this is not a camera-friendly place. But if you happen to live here, the standard of living is quite high. Sleek apartments and vast green spaces abound in this city, as do good restaurants and wonderful bars (it is known as the "Pub City" after all). I happened to arrive here in time for a great St. Patrick's Day Pub Crawl, and after not really drinking at all in India, it was a huge change of pace (a hangover ensued to say the least). But if I did not know somebody who lived here, it's safe to say that I would not have appreciated the city nearly as much. A working city it is; a tourist attraction it is not. In many ways Bengaluru is the most uncompromising and straightforward of cities - it does not try to woo and attract tourists. I cannot tell if Bengaluru even WANTS or NEEDS tourists to come. Only those who are meant to be here come and stay. It is stricty enjoyed by insiders. The rest quickly vacate the premises.
For all of the vast potential that I saw in this city, I also saw some of the worst traffic so far in India. In fact, Bengaluru is infamous for its traffic jams. The traffic that I happened to see was mostly the result of a new Metro that is being built. Buses, cars, and motorcycles were constantly being detoured and herded around imposing concrete beams that sprouted out of the ground like fat redwood tree trunks. Traffic refused to move for minutes on end. This construction is a huge nuisance for now, but the up and coming Metro could very well transform the city into a supremely efficient urban center. Sadly, work never seems to progress much. When driving by some men working on one Metro beam, my friend Amrit told me that it was one of the few times in a long while that he had seen any work get done. Things must pick up soon, because bad infrastructure is actually undermining Bengaluru's top standing as an IT center - many investors are relocating to other cities now, such as New Delhi, Chennai, and Chandigarh.
As powerful as India has become due to its booming IT sector, the country would do well to improve its economy in other areas as well. Only about 1-2 million (if that) are employed in the IT sector. Obviously the IT sector will not solve India's problems of providing job security to its people. While those who are employed in this sector are reaping the benefits of a good job, millions of people do not enjoy such stability in their lives. India's population is quite similar to that of China. In 2005, China's formal manufacturing sector employed about 100 million people, while India employed only 7 million people. It is clear that India must improve its manufacturing sector, for that could be a great way to provide jobs to people and stimulate economic growth. Everywhere I travel in India, I see hordes of perfectly fit people just sitting in the street, with nothing to do and little direction in life. They seem dejected, and for good reason. These are the people who can be put to work, and they (and their families) can then enjoy a higher standard of life when they receive a paycheck.
Progress is being made however. I recently read an article by Saritha Rai (The Global Post) about a wonderful project that is occurring in Bengaluru. A company by the name of KK Plastic Waste Management Co. has begun to add shredded plastic waste to road-laying material (asphalt). Such plastic binds the asphalt and reduces the need for constant repair, actually doubling the lifespan of a normal road. Plastic is also water-resistant and thus allows roads to withstand the heavy rains of India. Overall, this material (called "Polymerized Bitumen") can better handle the pressure of constant traffic jams and erosion. More importantly, these "plastic roads" make use of tons of plastic waste. India has always been proud of its ability to recycle cloth, paper, and metal - but plastic has unfortunately been neglected. While many cities have taken the step of banning the use of plastic bags, plastic waste still overflows India's landfills, pollutes its rivers and oceans, and clogs its drainage systems. Bengaluru alone generates about 40 tons of plastic waste each day! The project is off to a great start - so far 800 miles of sturdy city roads have been built, and the city has been rid of 4,000 tons of plastic waste. Fortunately, rag pickers (trash collectors who are some of the poorest people in India) are paid to find plastic trash. In the end, the project has allowed roads to become sturdier, plastic waste to be reduced, and it has proven to be a great way to employ people. As of now, KK CO. is bidding for plastic road-laying projects in New Delhi and Mumbai, and governments in Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and Nigeria are interested in the idea as well.
Bengaluru has always been a city of innovation. It was the first city in India to switch to electric street lights, and now it is the first to change the way it builds its roads. The city's booming IT sector is further proof of the vast potential that exists here. Although there is not much to actually see in Bengaluru, the city provides a high standard of living to its inhabitants, and there is far more happening here than meets the eye...
Whenever you have a problem with your printer, your computer, or any other piece of technology, you are usually patched over to somebody at a call center who speaks English with an Indian accent. These people are often stationed in Bengaluru, which is India's (and the world's) homebase for call centers, as well as a hub of Information Technology (IT) and software. The city has for years attracted a diverse portion of India's best and brightest. Because of this, Bengaluru has a very youthful, intelligent population, not to mention the fine dining and nightlife that comes along with it.
To the casual visitor, the city does not seem very interesting. To paraphrase my friend and Bengaluru local Amrit Dhir, 'this city is not necessarily great for visiting or sightseeing, but it is possibly the best city in India to live in.' And he is right. There are very few old neighborhoods, or interesting temples and mosques - this is not a camera-friendly place. But if you happen to live here, the standard of living is quite high. Sleek apartments and vast green spaces abound in this city, as do good restaurants and wonderful bars (it is known as the "Pub City" after all). I happened to arrive here in time for a great St. Patrick's Day Pub Crawl, and after not really drinking at all in India, it was a huge change of pace (a hangover ensued to say the least). But if I did not know somebody who lived here, it's safe to say that I would not have appreciated the city nearly as much. A working city it is; a tourist attraction it is not. In many ways Bengaluru is the most uncompromising and straightforward of cities - it does not try to woo and attract tourists. I cannot tell if Bengaluru even WANTS or NEEDS tourists to come. Only those who are meant to be here come and stay. It is stricty enjoyed by insiders. The rest quickly vacate the premises.
For all of the vast potential that I saw in this city, I also saw some of the worst traffic so far in India. In fact, Bengaluru is infamous for its traffic jams. The traffic that I happened to see was mostly the result of a new Metro that is being built. Buses, cars, and motorcycles were constantly being detoured and herded around imposing concrete beams that sprouted out of the ground like fat redwood tree trunks. Traffic refused to move for minutes on end. This construction is a huge nuisance for now, but the up and coming Metro could very well transform the city into a supremely efficient urban center. Sadly, work never seems to progress much. When driving by some men working on one Metro beam, my friend Amrit told me that it was one of the few times in a long while that he had seen any work get done. Things must pick up soon, because bad infrastructure is actually undermining Bengaluru's top standing as an IT center - many investors are relocating to other cities now, such as New Delhi, Chennai, and Chandigarh.
As powerful as India has become due to its booming IT sector, the country would do well to improve its economy in other areas as well. Only about 1-2 million (if that) are employed in the IT sector. Obviously the IT sector will not solve India's problems of providing job security to its people. While those who are employed in this sector are reaping the benefits of a good job, millions of people do not enjoy such stability in their lives. India's population is quite similar to that of China. In 2005, China's formal manufacturing sector employed about 100 million people, while India employed only 7 million people. It is clear that India must improve its manufacturing sector, for that could be a great way to provide jobs to people and stimulate economic growth. Everywhere I travel in India, I see hordes of perfectly fit people just sitting in the street, with nothing to do and little direction in life. They seem dejected, and for good reason. These are the people who can be put to work, and they (and their families) can then enjoy a higher standard of life when they receive a paycheck.
Progress is being made however. I recently read an article by Saritha Rai (The Global Post) about a wonderful project that is occurring in Bengaluru. A company by the name of KK Plastic Waste Management Co. has begun to add shredded plastic waste to road-laying material (asphalt). Such plastic binds the asphalt and reduces the need for constant repair, actually doubling the lifespan of a normal road. Plastic is also water-resistant and thus allows roads to withstand the heavy rains of India. Overall, this material (called "Polymerized Bitumen") can better handle the pressure of constant traffic jams and erosion. More importantly, these "plastic roads" make use of tons of plastic waste. India has always been proud of its ability to recycle cloth, paper, and metal - but plastic has unfortunately been neglected. While many cities have taken the step of banning the use of plastic bags, plastic waste still overflows India's landfills, pollutes its rivers and oceans, and clogs its drainage systems. Bengaluru alone generates about 40 tons of plastic waste each day! The project is off to a great start - so far 800 miles of sturdy city roads have been built, and the city has been rid of 4,000 tons of plastic waste. Fortunately, rag pickers (trash collectors who are some of the poorest people in India) are paid to find plastic trash. In the end, the project has allowed roads to become sturdier, plastic waste to be reduced, and it has proven to be a great way to employ people. As of now, KK CO. is bidding for plastic road-laying projects in New Delhi and Mumbai, and governments in Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and Nigeria are interested in the idea as well.
Bengaluru has always been a city of innovation. It was the first city in India to switch to electric street lights, and now it is the first to change the way it builds its roads. The city's booming IT sector is further proof of the vast potential that exists here. Although there is not much to actually see in Bengaluru, the city provides a high standard of living to its inhabitants, and there is far more happening here than meets the eye...
3/13/2010
Mumbai: Back To The World
I have come to notice how uncompromisingly Indian things are in this country: Indian music, Indian TV, Indian films, Indian food, Indian fashion, and Indian mannerisms are omnipresent. I have barely heard any Western music, rarely seen any TV shows that I'm familiar with, and I have only eaten Western food in tourist areas. I've only seen about 5 McDonald's in the past two months, and they are only in the bigger cities. This country is obsessed with itself, which I find very impressive! At times I think that it doesn't need the rest of the world (except for the economy). Even when Indians emulate the Western world, they do it with a thoroughly Indian twist. So having been in this country for well over a month, I was beginning to get pulled into the whirlpool- India was beginning to overpower my awareness of the outside world. Just when I had nearly forgotten about this world, I arrived in Mumbai...
The mere mention of Mumbai (or Bombay) has always been extremely intimidating to me, invoking images of a dark, dirty, putrid tangle of buildings and streets full of mean faces and aggression. New Delhi was the only other mega-city that I had been to at this point, and I was not impressed by its harsh intensity. So it was only natural for me to expect Mumbai to be much the same, if not bigger and meaner. After all, it does have an official population of 19-20 million people (though I believe it is much higher in reality) and it is easily one of the biggest cities in the world. In fact, more people live in Mumbai than Norway, Denmark, and Finland combined! It is the home of India's stock exchange and the legendary Bollywood film industry. About 38% of India's taxes are generated in this city alone. It is a powerhouse, to say the least. Therefore, I was officially a bundle of nerves as I rode into town. I had no clue what to expect...
Wow! I cannot believe how welcoming Mumbai actually is!
Old colonial and Victorian buildings are everywhere, showcasing the city's long history, while along the beach there are Art Deco apartments to lend a more funky vibe. Victoria Terminus is the busiest train station in Asia, and it is easily the most beautiful train station I have ever seen. Same with the Central Post Office, which is housed in a grand Victorian building. The University of Mumbai is breathtaking, and the Taj Mahal Palace is among the most stunning and luxurious hotels that I have had the pleasure to enter. The gate of India is also a very memorable monument, straddling the ocean that laps only feet away. The streets themselves, full of charming black and yellow Fiat cabs, are lined with various trees like Banyans and Palms, providing pedestrians with shade and aesthetic, natural beauty. The Oval Maiden (thank the Brits for that name) is an open green field surrounded by palm trees where boys play cricket and people relax during the middle of the day. An ocean breeze occasionally flows through town, rustling the palm fronds, and briefly chilling the hot, humid air.
After staying in so many ugly cities in India, I was now very confused, especially since this was the city I expected be the ugliest! But the overall city plan is very logical, developed, and mature- it is clear that Mumbai has had time to get things right and work out the kinks. I got a very warm, easy-going feeling while walking through town. The traffic doesn't even seem to rage at the typical Indian pace. Picture the grandiosity of a New York or London, combined with a seafront and a semi-tropical atmosphere reminiscent of Miami.
What I find most interesting about the city is how international and cosmopolitan it is. For the first time in India, I could hear a familiar song, or eat familiar food. For the first time I could see stores like Nike, Adidas, Bulgari, Dolce & Gabbana, etc. And the restaurants, bars, and lounges here are top notch. I was very shocked by how the women act here. They seem like a different species altogether from the typical Indian women I have encountered. Instead of every female dressing in traditional Indian clothing, many are dressed in very fashionable clothes - they have no problem looking good and showing off their bodies. Rather than a slow, rigid way of moving, they walk with confidence. Instead of soft voices, guarded eyes and plain expressions, they are quicker to smile or look somebody in the eye, and they talk in a louder, more casual voice than the typical Indian woman. They seem much more liberated from tradition, which can be good or bad depending on how one looks at it. Many men are smartly dressed in nice suits, and walk with purpose and swagger. Everybody seems to be on a cell phone, and half the people are even talking in English. People do not stop to talk to me every second here, and frankly they don't seem to even notice me much of the time - foreigners are not a strange sight to the locals here, who seem to have things to do and therefore can't be bothered. This is a far cry from the parochial atmosphere of most places I have visited in India, where people just stare at me or approach me all day. My time here quickly reminded me that I was on planet Earth again, rather than just planet India.
I did notice a darker side to the city however. South Mumbai (including the Fort and Colaba areas) is the nicer part of town, and that's where I mainly stayed. But I did take a trip to North Mumbai, particularly the Dharavi slum (the biggest slum in Asia). Sadly, over half of the population in this city lives in either slums or shantytowns. It was too dangerous for me to really penetrate (people were warning me not to go inside), but I walked around the edge and peeked in. While some of the richest people in the world live in this city, millions of the poorest also call Bombay home, and they do not lead nice lives. In these parts of town beggars abound, often holding a child as a prop for sympathy points. I could see many dirty, barefooted children walking around, collecting money under the instruction of their parents or the local mafia boss - kids grow up very fast here, and there is no time or money for a true childhood. I also ran into lots of guys trying to sell me drugs and trying to talk to me through a cocaine haze, their eyes bloodshot and their jaws working overtime. They were not pleasant people, and I certainly did not want to make them angry. I got the feeling that many horrible things happen in this city, but in places hidden from the public, where nobody can see them. But perhaps this is true in every major city- one can never truly know...
Mumbai provided me with one of the greatest surprises of my life. Contrary to my expectations, it ranks among the most memorable and eye-opening cities I have visited. The absolute poorest people live near some of the richest people in the world. Some of the nicest hotels in the world are miles away from the biggest and dirtiest slums in the world. You will hear each of India's 23 languages spoken here, and you will see people of every ethnicity in the world wearing every type of clothing, and eating every kind of food. I admit that New Delhi initially soured me on big Indian cities, but Mumbai ended that - comparing Delhi to Mumbai is like comparing fish oil to honey. Bombay is like a rich curry, with many different ingredients that combine to make a wonderful flavor, greater than the sum of its parts. It combines physical beauty with cultural integrity. As far as mega-cities go, Mumbai is difficult to beat in terms of ambiance, sophistication, complexity, and historical legacy. It is truly one of the most unforgettable cities in the world...
The mere mention of Mumbai (or Bombay) has always been extremely intimidating to me, invoking images of a dark, dirty, putrid tangle of buildings and streets full of mean faces and aggression. New Delhi was the only other mega-city that I had been to at this point, and I was not impressed by its harsh intensity. So it was only natural for me to expect Mumbai to be much the same, if not bigger and meaner. After all, it does have an official population of 19-20 million people (though I believe it is much higher in reality) and it is easily one of the biggest cities in the world. In fact, more people live in Mumbai than Norway, Denmark, and Finland combined! It is the home of India's stock exchange and the legendary Bollywood film industry. About 38% of India's taxes are generated in this city alone. It is a powerhouse, to say the least. Therefore, I was officially a bundle of nerves as I rode into town. I had no clue what to expect...
Wow! I cannot believe how welcoming Mumbai actually is!
Old colonial and Victorian buildings are everywhere, showcasing the city's long history, while along the beach there are Art Deco apartments to lend a more funky vibe. Victoria Terminus is the busiest train station in Asia, and it is easily the most beautiful train station I have ever seen. Same with the Central Post Office, which is housed in a grand Victorian building. The University of Mumbai is breathtaking, and the Taj Mahal Palace is among the most stunning and luxurious hotels that I have had the pleasure to enter. The gate of India is also a very memorable monument, straddling the ocean that laps only feet away. The streets themselves, full of charming black and yellow Fiat cabs, are lined with various trees like Banyans and Palms, providing pedestrians with shade and aesthetic, natural beauty. The Oval Maiden (thank the Brits for that name) is an open green field surrounded by palm trees where boys play cricket and people relax during the middle of the day. An ocean breeze occasionally flows through town, rustling the palm fronds, and briefly chilling the hot, humid air.
After staying in so many ugly cities in India, I was now very confused, especially since this was the city I expected be the ugliest! But the overall city plan is very logical, developed, and mature- it is clear that Mumbai has had time to get things right and work out the kinks. I got a very warm, easy-going feeling while walking through town. The traffic doesn't even seem to rage at the typical Indian pace. Picture the grandiosity of a New York or London, combined with a seafront and a semi-tropical atmosphere reminiscent of Miami.
What I find most interesting about the city is how international and cosmopolitan it is. For the first time in India, I could hear a familiar song, or eat familiar food. For the first time I could see stores like Nike, Adidas, Bulgari, Dolce & Gabbana, etc. And the restaurants, bars, and lounges here are top notch. I was very shocked by how the women act here. They seem like a different species altogether from the typical Indian women I have encountered. Instead of every female dressing in traditional Indian clothing, many are dressed in very fashionable clothes - they have no problem looking good and showing off their bodies. Rather than a slow, rigid way of moving, they walk with confidence. Instead of soft voices, guarded eyes and plain expressions, they are quicker to smile or look somebody in the eye, and they talk in a louder, more casual voice than the typical Indian woman. They seem much more liberated from tradition, which can be good or bad depending on how one looks at it. Many men are smartly dressed in nice suits, and walk with purpose and swagger. Everybody seems to be on a cell phone, and half the people are even talking in English. People do not stop to talk to me every second here, and frankly they don't seem to even notice me much of the time - foreigners are not a strange sight to the locals here, who seem to have things to do and therefore can't be bothered. This is a far cry from the parochial atmosphere of most places I have visited in India, where people just stare at me or approach me all day. My time here quickly reminded me that I was on planet Earth again, rather than just planet India.
I did notice a darker side to the city however. South Mumbai (including the Fort and Colaba areas) is the nicer part of town, and that's where I mainly stayed. But I did take a trip to North Mumbai, particularly the Dharavi slum (the biggest slum in Asia). Sadly, over half of the population in this city lives in either slums or shantytowns. It was too dangerous for me to really penetrate (people were warning me not to go inside), but I walked around the edge and peeked in. While some of the richest people in the world live in this city, millions of the poorest also call Bombay home, and they do not lead nice lives. In these parts of town beggars abound, often holding a child as a prop for sympathy points. I could see many dirty, barefooted children walking around, collecting money under the instruction of their parents or the local mafia boss - kids grow up very fast here, and there is no time or money for a true childhood. I also ran into lots of guys trying to sell me drugs and trying to talk to me through a cocaine haze, their eyes bloodshot and their jaws working overtime. They were not pleasant people, and I certainly did not want to make them angry. I got the feeling that many horrible things happen in this city, but in places hidden from the public, where nobody can see them. But perhaps this is true in every major city- one can never truly know...
Mumbai provided me with one of the greatest surprises of my life. Contrary to my expectations, it ranks among the most memorable and eye-opening cities I have visited. The absolute poorest people live near some of the richest people in the world. Some of the nicest hotels in the world are miles away from the biggest and dirtiest slums in the world. You will hear each of India's 23 languages spoken here, and you will see people of every ethnicity in the world wearing every type of clothing, and eating every kind of food. I admit that New Delhi initially soured me on big Indian cities, but Mumbai ended that - comparing Delhi to Mumbai is like comparing fish oil to honey. Bombay is like a rich curry, with many different ingredients that combine to make a wonderful flavor, greater than the sum of its parts. It combines physical beauty with cultural integrity. As far as mega-cities go, Mumbai is difficult to beat in terms of ambiance, sophistication, complexity, and historical legacy. It is truly one of the most unforgettable cities in the world...
2/28/2010
Ahmedabad: What Would Gandhi Think?
Ahmedabad is the capital city of Gujarat state (in West India), and with a population of around 5 million people, it is no slouch as far as metros go. The traffic to get into town was dense and sluggish - as usual it was an uncomfortable arrival. Drivers in India care not for the comfort of their passengers and thus I usually find my whole body being thrown about like a ragdoll: the brakes, the gas pedal, and the steering wheel are used liberally in the fight for every bit of lane-less road.
The city itself is very old and has a high concentration of Muslims - I visited the beautiful Grand Mosque that was built in the early 15th century! Markets line the streets in the old town, with people selling socks, toys, and everything under the sun. It seemed that few foreigners came through here, for I didn't see a single other "white person", and just about every set of eyes was upon me all the time, everywhere I went. Fortunately, they were curious eyes, not xenophobic, hostile eyes. Other than some relics from the past (a few mosques, remnants of a fort, and an old gate into town), the town seemed plain, almost dreary - the buildings were not old enough to be interesting, but not modern enough to please the eye.
Ahmedabad is really known as Gandhi's headquarters during the middle part of his life, where he developed his theories and techniques for non-violent protest - it was on the outskirts of this town where he founded an ashram on the banks of the local river. It was a huge pleasure to visit the place - it was a peaceful haven from the heavy atmosphere of the city. To see the simple (almost empty) room where he lived, was quite moving. It was even more amazing to think that this man accomplished the same thing as the United States Army (ousting the British Empire), but without even fighting! A strong mind needs no fist apparently. To walk where Gandhi walked and to sit where Gandhi sat really inspired me. It gave me hope...
Later that night I was walking down a busy street, facing blinding headlights and deafening horns. Without warning, I stumbled upon the saddest sight I had ever seen. It was an old lady, no younger than 70 or 80- frail, wrinkled, nearly comatose - lying on the side of the road. Her feet were nearly sticking out onto the road, almost about to get run over. She was alone, sleeping on hard dirt, just staring into space. Her eyes would not blink. Other than small tears, her eyes looked empty. She seemed too lonely to care anymore, as if she were in shock. She was a shell of a person. After so many years on this planet, this is what her life had come to? Nobody was around to care for her or even comfort her as she faced death, old age and discomfort. People just drove by without even a glance. This woman was in deep trouble and help was not on the way: she was past the point of hope. At least the beggar children that I've encountered on the streets have a glimmer of hope, and a future (though a grim one). Most importantly, they have each other. But this woman had nobody, and not a trace hope...
It was too much for me to bear. I stopped, and for a few minutes I just sat with her and tried to soothe her. It was the least that I could do. She never looked my way or even moved, but I could see more tears in those empty eyes. She knew I was there, but I will never know if I helped - I hope she knows that at least someone cares. I eventually walked away, but I couldn't stop thinking about her. I replaced her image with that of my own grandmother, and couldn't help but shudder. Would you simply walk by an old lady lying in the dirt, dying of loneliness? Can you imagine your own grandmother in that position? What a way to end a life!
This single image can help explain many instances of overpopulation on this planet (especially in developing countries). Some people have lots of children because they do not want to turn out like this lady - lonely and dying, with nobody to care for them. They consider it an investment for their future - a free servant. All one needs to confirm this is to look at the thousands of children who are purposely mangled just to help earn pity money from people passing by. A couple of days ago, I saw a little girl less than a year old (practically a baby), without one of her legs - slinking along the ground, almost like an earthworm. I doubt she was born without a second leg.
So after such an inspiring day, I had seen the most wretched soul on earth: a soul that had given up, too sad to fight back. Is this what Gandhi wanted when he fought for a free and independent India? What would he do if he saw this lady? What would he think? The situation before me cannot possibly be the one that Gandhi had in mind...
The city itself is very old and has a high concentration of Muslims - I visited the beautiful Grand Mosque that was built in the early 15th century! Markets line the streets in the old town, with people selling socks, toys, and everything under the sun. It seemed that few foreigners came through here, for I didn't see a single other "white person", and just about every set of eyes was upon me all the time, everywhere I went. Fortunately, they were curious eyes, not xenophobic, hostile eyes. Other than some relics from the past (a few mosques, remnants of a fort, and an old gate into town), the town seemed plain, almost dreary - the buildings were not old enough to be interesting, but not modern enough to please the eye.
Ahmedabad is really known as Gandhi's headquarters during the middle part of his life, where he developed his theories and techniques for non-violent protest - it was on the outskirts of this town where he founded an ashram on the banks of the local river. It was a huge pleasure to visit the place - it was a peaceful haven from the heavy atmosphere of the city. To see the simple (almost empty) room where he lived, was quite moving. It was even more amazing to think that this man accomplished the same thing as the United States Army (ousting the British Empire), but without even fighting! A strong mind needs no fist apparently. To walk where Gandhi walked and to sit where Gandhi sat really inspired me. It gave me hope...
Later that night I was walking down a busy street, facing blinding headlights and deafening horns. Without warning, I stumbled upon the saddest sight I had ever seen. It was an old lady, no younger than 70 or 80- frail, wrinkled, nearly comatose - lying on the side of the road. Her feet were nearly sticking out onto the road, almost about to get run over. She was alone, sleeping on hard dirt, just staring into space. Her eyes would not blink. Other than small tears, her eyes looked empty. She seemed too lonely to care anymore, as if she were in shock. She was a shell of a person. After so many years on this planet, this is what her life had come to? Nobody was around to care for her or even comfort her as she faced death, old age and discomfort. People just drove by without even a glance. This woman was in deep trouble and help was not on the way: she was past the point of hope. At least the beggar children that I've encountered on the streets have a glimmer of hope, and a future (though a grim one). Most importantly, they have each other. But this woman had nobody, and not a trace hope...
It was too much for me to bear. I stopped, and for a few minutes I just sat with her and tried to soothe her. It was the least that I could do. She never looked my way or even moved, but I could see more tears in those empty eyes. She knew I was there, but I will never know if I helped - I hope she knows that at least someone cares. I eventually walked away, but I couldn't stop thinking about her. I replaced her image with that of my own grandmother, and couldn't help but shudder. Would you simply walk by an old lady lying in the dirt, dying of loneliness? Can you imagine your own grandmother in that position? What a way to end a life!
This single image can help explain many instances of overpopulation on this planet (especially in developing countries). Some people have lots of children because they do not want to turn out like this lady - lonely and dying, with nobody to care for them. They consider it an investment for their future - a free servant. All one needs to confirm this is to look at the thousands of children who are purposely mangled just to help earn pity money from people passing by. A couple of days ago, I saw a little girl less than a year old (practically a baby), without one of her legs - slinking along the ground, almost like an earthworm. I doubt she was born without a second leg.
So after such an inspiring day, I had seen the most wretched soul on earth: a soul that had given up, too sad to fight back. Is this what Gandhi wanted when he fought for a free and independent India? What would he do if he saw this lady? What would he think? The situation before me cannot possibly be the one that Gandhi had in mind...
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
